Atelier

Glebe's great for Indian, Polish, Lebanese and Sichuan, but there are only two fine diners in the suburb worth any chop: Glebe Point Diner and Atelier, a sweet little cottage at the beginning of Glebe Point Road offering a midweek dinner special of $65 for three courses. Suh-weet!

Start with the Berkshire pork rillettes - rich, sweet shreds of pork are captured in their own fat and served warm with a side of crispbread and pickles. Scallops are champion of the evening - lightly seared and almost obscenely chubby, they're topped with sweetbread puffs and a slash of creamed celeriac and braised ox tail. It sounds like it should be crazily rich, but it's beautifully balanced.

Chef Darren Templeman's food dances between daring and delicious, with mixed results. Poussin (lil' baby chicken) is wrapped around a core of foie gras, a dish you might expect to be warm or hot rather than cold. There's nothing wrong with serving it this way, although the idea of warm foie gras enriching the chicken is a little more attractive.

The rabbit and scampi paired with XO-tinted sauce and garlic and leek puree stands out, as does the exceptional potato gnocchi with the roasted kingfish, studded with super sweet bits of Moreton Bay bug. Dessert-wise, the caramel soufflé is well worth a tilt.