While the flashy city CBD might get a lot of attention when it comes to the culinary scene, the lesser spoken of North Sydney CBD is doing plenty to catch the lime-light. One such heavy-hitter in the ring is Glorietta, barely a stone’s throw from the Harbour Bridge, tucked away on Mount Street in North Sydney. A recent-ish addition to the small but growing food and drink scene north of the Coathanger, it is one of so many venues that have had to contend with the nightmare of covid and lockdowns for almost all of its short existence.
The vibe at Glorietta is neighbourhood trattoria meets inner-city business lunch spot. The space itself is glorious; a cavernous, almost industrial space that breezily weaves together many different and disparate elements. Here and there a cement pillar; floor-to-ceiling windows; a large open kitchen with bar seating for culinary voyeurism; a classic Italian-style timber island bar and glass bi-folds leading to a tranquil outdoor courtyard. The dining room is softened by wooden fixtures and rattan chutes suspended high above your head. The combination is effortless, a light-filled oasis amid a sea of high-rises. A truly refreshing choice for dinner or your work lunch-break. Speaking of which.
The menu is split into two sections: 'From the Kitchen' and 'From the Pizza Oven' and despite not being overly extensive certainly covers more than enough ground. The notoriously difficult classic of frittura di mare is all about the soft, fleshy and chewy calamari and octopus pieces, seasoned and coated in a light batter then flash-fried. The cephalopods are fresh and crisp, the cooking times clearly perfected as reflected by a popping-fresh, giant king prawn that adorns the dish.
The zucchini flowers with burrata and sun-dried tomato is a simple plate, crisp and crunchy stems countered by a piping-hot cheesy filling. There’s a sharpness to it that suggests the presence of parmigiano which carries the softer flavour of the burrata against the more intense sun-dried tomato.
Don't be fooled by the grilled snapper with wild mushroom ragu and cherry tomato, which may conjure stick-to-your-ribswinter fare. The rich and earthy — yet not saucy — ragu is deceptively delicate, the kind of quick dish your nonna might whip up for you as a hungry child. Acid from the fresh cherry tomato cuts through and hints of heaviness and freshens things up to compliment the meaty and firm flesh that melts in your mouth and leaves a smile on your face. A very clever dish.
The burrata pizza is a staple at Glorietta and it’s not hard to see why; another classic combination executed very well. The pizza dough is thin but with plenty of integrity, holding its firmness even after having sat at the table a while. Big tick. Confit pomodoro is a fresh take on the base passata and brings a lightness and brightness that is welcomed. Add burrata and prosciutto slices and what could possibly go wrong?
For dessert the tiramisu hits the spot. It’s another of those dishes that we all know and love so well, and this version strikes the right balance between coffee-cream-sweet-bitter. It’s a huge serving at the end of a meal full of generous servings, but is mercifully light on the tongue.
Glorietta buzzes with noise and energy and looking at the crowd of happy diners, seems to have found a home in North Sydney. The secret lies in simplicity; everything is approachable and familiar and there is nothing showy about it. All the comfort of your local trattoria, just on a grander scale. If you’re into relaxed service and big on atmosphere then go and visit Glorietta. Just like Nonna's place, make sure you come with an empty stomach, you certainly won’t be leaving with one.