Gyradiko

First up, it’s all about the bread: fluffy rounds of fresh pita, scorched lightly on the grill. They're filled with slices of juicy pork or chicken – just like in Greece – carved straight off the vertical spit. There’s a smattering of salad: ripe tomato wedges, red onion, parsley and a slick of tzatziki, but mostly it’s one helluva meatfest. They add a couple of chips inside as well, traditional-style.

It ain’t pretty eating but that’s half the fun. The pillowy-soft pita soaks up all the juices from the meat. And back to those chips. Joined with the bread, they offer outrageously good carb-on-carb action. They use chicken thighs here so the meat is tender and juicy. The pork is saltier but lusciously fatty, too.

The locals love it. Since opening in late April, the queues at this corner takeaway have been non-stop. Everyone wants in on the gyros action, including teenagers, families, tradies and an army of young men. Don’t be surprised to arrive at night and find a line that snakes around the block.

A simple pork or chicken gyros will set you back $7.80, or you can add chips and a drink and pay $13. The cone-shaped roll is ideal for takeaway but if you’re lucky enough you might score one of the few tables inside or on the street. If you really want to make a meal of it, order the pork or chicken on a plate: a mountain of meat piled up with chips, salad, a dollop of tzatziki and triangles of pita. Use a fork, scoop everything up with the pita or just use your fingers. Nobody cares. They’re all too busy scoffing their own.

At the moment they’re only doing gyros but judging by the menu board they’ll be doing pork souvlaki soon. Head over. And get in line.

 Time Out Awards

2014Best Bang for Buck

View this year's Time Out Food Award winners