If you know Bondi Beach then you’ll definitely know Harry’s. Down the bottom of Wairoa Avenue is where you’ll find this institution; for around 25 years it has cranked out coffees and fed the Beautiful Bondi Set. It’s a classic beachside haunt, you know the type: always busy but never rushed, always bumping into a friend or two, a gathering place for locals (and visitors in the know) that adds a bit of soul to a community. Earlier this year Harry’s had a bit of a facelift, nothing major but a bit of a refresh to allow the space to transition from cool cafe to sexy izakaya: enter RND, or Raw Next Door. Next door that is, to another Bondi institution, Raw Bar.
RND takes on a semi-industrial vibe by twilight, with its polished concrete, timber settings and that easy Japanese minimalist styling. It’s a striking space with seating all along the street-facing window, plus tables outside to sit and soak up the salty ocean air. There’s a little projector throwing old black-and-white Japanese films onto one of the walls, a really cool touch and maybe a nice distraction for those awkward moments when conversation stutters.
The menu is concise, a one-pager and it’s very tempting to order one of everything, which would comfortably feed you and a couple of mates. Edamame to start, as is practically the custom at any Japanese eatery here. It’s often the simplest things that make the biggest difference and a quick char on the hibachi grill plus some smoked soy turns this humble starter into a must-have that you’ll want more of. The sushi cubes are a fresh take on the beloved rolls and hit the spot. Tempura mushrooms are a highlight, served with a generous river of white truffle infused porcini cream that you may need to mop up with your fingers. Sticking with the bolder flavours is the smoked pork cheek skewer with burnt honey glaze, the richness of the pork cheek and the sticky sweet glaze are a winning combination.
The hibachi wagyu and market fish are recommended for our larger dishes and with very good reason. The market fish is a crispy-skinned fillet of ocean trout served with an avocado and yuzu mousse, and a smoked tamari glaze. It is a flavour sensation, a party that all flavours are invited to and where citrus, salt and smoke meet. Wagyu is pretty great to begin with, so when given the hibachi treatment with teriyaki and egg yolk as bedfirends then things can only get better. Thinly sliced and served medium-rare, it is all about deep, rich, earthy flavours. Make sure to save a little space for dessert; the mochi bomb is the quite literally the bomb. Another mash-up of salty/sweet/sticky but utterly refreshing and revitalising apres meal.
Rocking a mostly Australian low-intervention wine list, a selection of sake and a beachy vibes cocktail list, there is ample good drinking to be had while you sit and catch the dying rays of sun. Staff are warm and friendly and moving to the beat of the ocean, the buzz of conversation and trills of laughter swirl through the space, and the food is on point. It’s not refined Japanese, but rather a marriage of classic Japanese flavours with an Aussie accent and it's done very well. There’s no reason to think that RND will not enjoy similar success to its illustrious siblings Raw Bar and Harry’s and if the team continues cranking out such tasty fun times then we say cheers to the next 25 years.