Albury Wodonga has occasionally been seen as a rest stop on the Sydney-Melbourne drive, but these days is telling a very different story. Historic buildings now house moody bars and trendy cafés, museums creatively showcase the region's culture and heritage, while the Murray River promises gorgeous natural scenery and diverse outdoor activities. With road trips now the holiday of choice for hungry domestic travellers, it's high time to rediscover this pocket rocket of a regional destination. Here's our suggested itinerary for a holiday in Albury Wodonga.
Temperance and General | Photograph: Cassandra Hannagan
Friday
Evening
From high-end hotels to historic bed and breakfasts, accommodation options in Albury Wodonga offer plenty of added value. The four-star Atura Hotel is a travellers’ favourite with its funky, high-energy design and spacious room sizes, while boutique stays like the Stone Cottage offer a more immersive experience. Housed in one of Albury Wodonga’s oldest buildings, the 1850s cottage invokes instant nostalgia and features a private garden.
At dinnertime head to Hapi, a hip little snack bar spinning dumplings, bao and moreish shareplates. Expect creative takes like beef bulgogi dumplings and veggie numbers stuffed with edamame, kale, tahini and lime, while sticky chicken bites and crisp wasabi calamari make great beer nibbles. If you're feeling a little fancier, put a pin in Hapi and save it for lunch another day, and take yourself to unassuming European fine diner Bistro Selle for a mind-blowing feast of eclectic dishes that are all about texture, texture, and more texture. Surprise your pallate with unlikely pairings like crispy fried tripe with Irish-style curry, barramundi with hazelnut, and lamb so good you could cry – all matched with wines picked for your personal taste by the attentive staff. (Hot tip: you absolutely need to book in advance.)
Post-dinner drinks are on at Temperance and General, a smart laneway bar that wouldn’t look out of place in Melbourne’s CBD. Housed in a 1930s NY-style art deco building, it's an intimate spot for classic cocktails and local wines.
Art Partners Australia | Photograph: Cassandra Hannagan
Saturday
Morning
Shake off last night’s dustiness with brekky at local favourite Mr Benedict. They’re the real deal, sourcing all their ingredients locally and even making their own kombucha and almond milk. Rev up with a strong and sweet Vietnamese cold brew and a pick from their dedicated menu of eggs bennies – the apple cider braised ham hock is an easy winner.
You can also get your hands on hot coffee and old school bacon and egg rolls at the Albury Wodonga Farmers Market, which pops up amongst the art and culture precinct at Gateway Village, a pleasantly surprising nook where you can potter through eclectic private artist studios and galleries.
The rest of the morning is devoted to delights of the visual kind. Wander through an exciting collection of local and international contemporary art at the Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA), followed by window shopping at commercial gallery Art Partners Australia. The well-regarded art consultancy showcases a different Australian artist each month, with paintings, prints and sculptures all available for purchase.
The River Deck Café | Photograph: Cassandra Hannagan
Afternoon
Enter leafy Noreuil Park for lunch at the River Deck Café. The café overlooks the Murray and is surrounded by majestic mature trees, so consider savouring some fresh country air on the deck before rugging up near the fireplace inside. Order round-the-world plates such as duck leg spring rolls and snail arancini with salsa verde, but make sure you save room for the boozy tiramisù with gianduja chocolate for dessert.
Next, shake your legs out on the stunning Yindyamarra Sculpture Trail, which winds along the Murray River through five kilometres of picturesque bushland. The trail is scattered with sculptures by local Aboriginal artists, schoolchildren and the Aboriginal community, each accompanied by an interpretative panel telling the story of the artwork from the artist's perspective speaking of shared experiences, knowledge and culture from those involved.
For another art experience, the small but mighty Hyphen - Wodonga Library Gallery houses a rotation of touring exhibitions in architectecturally sleek surrounds, with a spiral staircase that could be the envy of any villain's mansion, and great views of the hills to boot.
Before the sun sets make sure to swing by Lake Hume, a massive reservoir that holds a mind-bending six times the volume of water in Sydney Harbour. The lake is stocked with golden perch, Murray cod and rainbow trout, making it a popular destination for boating, fishing and camping all year round. Walk along the huge dam wall to see spectacular views across the lake as dusk sets in.
Evening
Splash out on dinner tonight at Miss Amelie, Albury Wodonga’s foremost fancy place to eat. Housed in what was once the old Wodonga railway station, they’ve since zjujzed up the interior into one befitting a fine diner. Chef and owner David Kapay has clocked time working under Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsay and Jason Atherton, and that modern European influence is seen in Miss Amelie’s menu today. Go the whole hog with a six-course degustation that’ll feed you flavour bombs like beef tartare with avocado, wakame and wasabi sorbet, while their spin on the classic lamington is the perfect finishing note.
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The restaurant also has a lovely bar extension, Little Miss, that’ll do you a nightcap or two. Try the spicy Dark Delight, a cocktail combining white rum, blackberry cinnamon syrup and orange zest.
Sunday
Morning
Awaken on your last morning to coffee at the Proprietor, one of Albury Wodonga’s most à la mode cafés. They’re serving smooth and robust Padre Coffee, genmaicha tea, turmeric lattes and seriously satisfying meals. Go gentle with their vegan polenta porridge, or bust a huge hunger with their ‘Prop fry up’, a take on the classic full English swapping snags for chorizo and sriracha butter.
Next, drive ten minutes to Eastern Hill Lookout, a viewing point that’ll take your eyes on a journey all the way over the Table Top ranges, Murray River floodplains and beyond. If you visit over autumn you’ll also catch the rich yellow and orange tones of giant poplar trees lining Mungabareena Road.
Alternatively, you could spend the morning exploring Albury Wodonga’s thriving street art scene on foot. Fire up Visit Albury Wodonga’s handy guide and go on a self-guided journey encompassing both impressive large scale works and whimsical gems that turn everything from drain pipes to NBN boxes into a canvas.
Miss Amelie Gourmet | Photograph: Cassandra Hannagan
Afternoon
After a big weekend of dining, go casual for your last lunch in town with unfussy pub grub at the Bended Elbow. There’s everything you want – burgers, parmas, sticky date pudding – and nothing you don’t, plus a great selection of tap beers and live music on select Sunday arvos.
Spend any time you have left over browsing Albury Wodonga’s local shopping gems. At Pour Mes Amis you’ll find zany and bright homewares, accessories and candles that’ll add a pop of colour to any home. Meanwhile Miss Amelie Gourmet, the specialty providore spinoff of Miss Amelie, sells grown up treats such as barbecue pork belly pies, truffle salami, housemade relishes and jars of duck fat. Finally, the MAMA Store is a great place to pick up a souvenir – showcasing independent designers, makers and artists from the great Murray region, they’ve got 3D printed vases, hand-sculpted mugs and statement jewellery among their selection.
