Opium Bar
Photograph: Opium Bar
Photograph: Opium Bar

Table talk in Bangkok (April 16-22)

Where to eat and drink in Bangkok this week of the capital’s most essential culinary happenings

Toey Sarunrat
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Bangkok settles into a slower rhythm this week after the Songkran rush, with new menus and bar updates that feel more considered than flashy. A light, seafood-led Italian menu lands at Rossini’s, while khao chae returns by the river at Praya Palazzo. Cocktail lists at Rabbit Hole and Opium Bar move between nostalgia and more ingredient-driven ideas. Sala Saneha, meanwhile, hosts a kitchen takeover revisiting a lesser-known chapter of Bangkok’s food story.

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At Rossini’s inside Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, the new Primavera & Mare menu leans into the cleaner, brighter side of Italian cooking. Chef Stefano Merlo builds it around seasonal produce such as white asparagus, violet artichokes and citrus, paired with seafood including red prawns, seabass and langoustine. The dishes are ingredient-led and nicely restrained. A take on sarde in saor adds sweet-sour depth, while lobster tortelli, risotto with langoustine and grilled seabass keep the tone elegant rather than showy. This is one for when you want a slower meal where the point is good produce handled properly.

Now until Apr 30. Prices from B580++ per dish. Rossini’s, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit. Lunch Mon–Fri 12pm–2.30pm; dinner daily 5.30pm–10.30pm.

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Over two evenings, Sala Saneha brings in Akkee and Baan Lamyai for its first kitchen takeover, centred on the idea of ‘cookshop’ cuisine. The concept looks back to a period when Chinese cooks in Thailand adapted Western dishes for American soldiers, often improvising with limited ingredients and local techniques. What emerged was a style that sat somewhere between Thai, Chinese and Western cooking, with its own charm and a fair bit of nostalgia. Expect an à la carte format and two seatings each evening. More than a one-off collaboration, this feels like a smart way of revisiting a part of Bangkok’s food story that doesn’t get enough attention.

Apr 27-28. Sala Saneha, Decho Rd, Suriya Wong, Bang Rak. Two seatings:  5.30pm-7.30pm and 8pm-12am. Advance booking recommended.

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  • Bang Phlat

At Praya Palazzo, summer means the return of khao chae, one of Thailand’s most distinctive warm-weather dishes. Served at Praya Dining in a restored riverside mansion, the whole experience suits the food: calm, unhurried and slightly old-world. Jasmine-scented rice arrives in chilled water with a traditional selection of sides, including sweet preserved radish, stuffed shallots and hand-shaped shrimp paste balls. It’s delicate, detailed and more satisfying than it first appears, especially when eaten slowly in the heat. For anyone looking for classic Thai seasonal food in Bangkok, this is an easy one to recommend.

Now until May. B960++ per person or B1,790++ for two. Praya Dining, Praya Palazzo, Somdej Prapinklao, Bangyeekhan, Bangplad. Advance booking required.

  • Thonglor

In Thonglor, Rabbit Hole is celebrating its tenth anniversary with a return of some of the drinks that helped define the bar in the first place. Familiar names such as Mad Hatter, Clueless and Smoke Peach Old Fashioned are back in their original form, which is part of the appeal. There’s no need to overcomplicate the idea: these are crowd favourites for a reason, and they still hold up. For long-time regulars, it’s a good excuse to revisit an old favourite; for newer drinkers, it’s a chance to try the cocktails that helped shape Bangkok’s bar scene over the past decade.

Now until Apr 30. From B440++ per drink. Rabbit Hole, Thonglor. Open daily 7pm-late

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  • Cocktail bars
  • Yaowarat
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At Opium Bar in Yaowarat, a new honey-focused cocktail collection keeps things tight and straightforward, with three drinks built around carefully sourced honey. The concept is simple, but the results feel well judged rather than gimmicky. Each cocktail moves in a different direction, from lighter and brighter notes to something rounder and more full-bodied, letting the honey shift character rather than dominate. It’s the sort of small, focused menu that works well when you want to try something new without committing to a whole tasting concept.

Ongoing. Opium Bar, Yaowarat. Open daily 5pm-1am (closed Wednesday).

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