Noisette
Photograph: Noisette | Table talk in Bangkok
Photograph: Noisette

Table talk in Bangkok (October 1-15)

Your weekly round-up of the capital’s most essential culinary happenings

Toey Sarunrat
Advertising

Bangkok is keeping the burners busy, with seasonal French cooking at Noisette in Yen Akat, crispy Thai dishes at Krobnok by Yangrak on Decho Road and a clue-led tasting menu at Restaurant ROSA in Chinatown. At Central Park, Tokyo’s Age.3 makes its Thai debut with fried shokupan sandwiches, while Stéphanie Le Quellec and Vincent Thierry reunite for a seven-course dinner at Chef’s Table by lebua.

Noisette brings a childhood friendship to the table, Aunglo’s new sibling goes all in on crunch and ROSA serves dinner with a little homework. There’s whipped cream worth loosening the belt for, too. Let’s get into it.

Here’s what’s on the table this week

  • Yenarkat

Childhood friends chef Dominique Salles and restaurateur Mathieu Campion have opened Noisette on Soi Yen Akat 3, bringing more than 15 years of hospitality experience between them. Salles grounds the cooking in classical French technique, while Campion brings nearly a decade of front-of-house experience at Sühring. The name recalls the hazelnut trees they grew up beneath and beurre noisette, butter browned until golden and nutty. Seasonal French cooking spans a five-course tasting menu, an à la carte selection and a three-course lunch, with the restaurant sitting somewhere between a neighbourhood bistro and fine dining.

Open now. Tue-Sun, noon-3pm and 6-11pm. Noisette, Soi Yen Akat 3. Reservations: 083-087-3184, 02-077-5962

  • Silom

The team behind Aunglo by Yangrak has a new trick up its sleeve, and it involves a fryer. Krobnok by Yangrak takes its sibling’s Thai flavours and techniques in a crispier direction, describing the approach as ‘Thai creative oil cuisine’. Even the name promises crunch: krobnok means crispy outside. Its planned reservation-only soft opening gives you an early look at what happens when the team turns its attention from the grill to the oil.

Soft opening scheduled for October 3. 9/2-3 Decho Road, next to Aunglo by Yangrak. Confirm opening dates, serving times and prices through @krobnok.by.yangrak when booking.

Advertising
  • Yaowarat

Upstairs at Wallflowers Cafe in Chinatown’s Soi Nana, Restaurant ROSA replaces the usual menu descriptions with a word or clue for each course. Its ‘Crossroads Cuisine’ draws on Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Indian and Western influences, leaving diners to work out what’s on the plate as they go. The mostly white dining room keeps the setting pared back, while the cooking plays with familiar flavours, memory and surprise. Think of it as dinner with a little homework.

Seven-course soft-opening offer advertised at B1,890++ until October 31. Open 5-11pm, with dinner sittings at 6pm, 7pm and 8pm; closed Tue-Wed. Restaurant ROSA, second floor, Wallflowers Cafe, Soi Nana. Reservations: 090-259-6569

  • Attractions
  • Towers and viewpoints
  • Saladaeng

Tokyo’s Ginza-born fried sandwich shop Age.3 has landed in Bangkok, and yes, the sandwiches are exactly as extra as they sound. Shokupan is fried to order until crisp outside and fluffy within, then filled with chilled whipped cream or savoury ingredients. Options include brûléed ice cream, chocolate and strawberry, plus Japanese BBQ beef with egg. Two Thailand-only creations join the line-up: Thai tea matcha brûlée and pad kra pao. The original whipped cream sandwich costs B89 – an easy one to try without booking a flight to Japan first.

Open from October 1. From B89. Daily, 10am-10pm. Age.3, Central Park, G floor, near Tops

Advertising
  • Charoenkrung

More than 20 years after working together at Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris, Stéphanie Le Quellec and Vincent Thierry are sharing a kitchen again. Now leading two-Michelin-starred La Scène in Paris and Chef’s Table by lebua in Bangkok respectively, they reunite for Two Scenes, One Table, a three-night collaboration on lebua’s 61st floor. Each chef contributes three savoury courses to the seven-course menu, followed by dessert from pastry chef Guillaume Tournemolle. Le Quellec brings French cooking shaped by her years in Provence, while Thierry contributes his contemporary French approach from Bangkok. Quite the catch-up dinner. 

October 1-3, 6pm-9.30pm. Seven-course menu B13,500++ per person; optional seven-glass wine pairing B9,000++. Chef’s Table by lebua, 61st floor, lebua Bangkok. Reservations: 02-624-9555.

  • Things to do
  • Ratchaprasong

Shake Shack heads seaside for its first seafood-focused collaboration in Thailand. Created with actor, chef and Talayjai founder JamyJamess, the Shake Shack x JamyJamess menu gives the New York burger chain a Thai seafood spin. Surfer Boy Shack pairs Angus beef with crispy shrimp, coriander, pickled red onion and Talayjai seafood mayo, while Talayjai Shrimp Shack puts shrimp front and centre. Sea & Fries adds tom yum seasoning, crispy shrimp chins and fried kaffir lime leaves. Coconut Shake combines fresh coconut, coconut milk and palm sugar. All four use seafood sourced in Thailand.

September 18-November 19. From B235. All Shake Shack locations in Thailand

Advertising
  • Things to do
  • Silom

For September and October, 25 Degrees gives its burger menu a Cuban accent with the new Cuban frita burger. Ground sirloin and chorizo come with frita sauce, grilled caramelised onions, American cheese and thin-cut house-made fries, all tucked into a brioche bun. Pair it with a Cuban-inspired mojito, Cuba libre or margarita. Berry muffin milkshake blends vanilla and berry ice cream with strawberry and blueberry purée, then adds fresh berries and a whole muffin. Hershey’s creamy milk chocolate milkshake remains on the menu until September 30.

September-October. Cuban frita burger B450; burger and cocktail pairing B650. 25 Degrees Bangkok

  • Rattanakosin

Yaowarat has reached Thai Tien, sort of. From the team behind Ruay Mitr Khao Tom Kui, Mitr Street is a new six-storey Thai Chinese street-food restaurant built around fire, wok cooking and Old Town energy. Ruay Mitr favourites include pengyou fried beef, urak lawoi prawn sashimi in fish sauce, Talad Plu crispy chive cakes and Ruay Mitr mama hotpot, New dishes range from red charcoal-grilled chicken and creamy crab omelette to Maha Mitr crab fried rice with that all-important wok hei. Upstairs, ThaiKi Rooftop Bar serves Thai-Chinese inspired cocktails with views of Wat Pho and the Chao Phraya River. Live DJs play every Saturday and Sunday from 6pm to 9pm.

Open daily 11am-10pm. Mitr Street, 119 Soi Tha Suphan, Tha Tien, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok

Advertising
  • Japanese
  • Surawong

A quick after-work drink is unlikely at Kizaru. The new Japanese izakaya at Montien Mall channels Tokyo’s late-night backstreets with an open kitchen, sharing plates and drinks worth lingering over. Chef Shun Sato, who grew up in the izakaya business in Sendai and has worked across Tokyo, Sydney, London and Hong Kong, serves chanjya tofu, takowasa and miso cream cheese alongside jet-fresh hamachi, salmon and chutoro sashimi, yakitori, tempura and wagyu steak. Fire scallop arrives at the table in blue flames. Drinks draw on Japan’s tachinomi culture, with cold beers, whisky highballs and regional sake, including unpasteurised bottles rarely found outside Japan. Come for dinner and expect to stay for one more.

Open now. Kizaru, Montien Mall, Surawong, Bangkok

  • Thai
  • Phloen Chit
  • price 4 of 4
  • Recommended

Saneh Jaan is celebrating its tenth anniversary with a reimagined dining experience while also debuting Jaan Ranjuan, a cocktail and tea lounge conceived as an extension of the restaurant. Thai flavours remain central, appearing in cocktails, teas and small bites built around local herbs, fruits, flowers and spices. The more relaxed space works equally well for lingering after dinner or dropping in for a standalone drink. Having retained a Michelin Star for nine consecutive years, Saneh Jaan is already looking towards its next decade.

Jaan Ranjuan, Saneh Jaan, Bangkok

Recommended
    Latest news
      Advertising