Currently the poster boy of Rijeka’s cultural scene on account of its recent move to new premises in the ex-industrial Benčić complex, the museum has one of the richest collections of contemporary art anywhere in Croatia. There is no permanent exhibition, however; items from the museum’s crammed vaults are regularly rotated in a highly imaginative cycle of changing, themed exhibitions. There is also a busy schedule of solo and group shows featuring artists from elsewhere. Occupying part of the so-called H-building, which began life as a sugar refinery before becoming a cigarette factory then a tractor-making workshop, the museum is an outstanding example of how to adapt 19th-century industrial architecture for contemporary cultural use.
Croatia’s third-largest city with a population of 150,000, Rijeka has a busy port that handles ten million tonnes of cargo and a quarter of a million passengers, many heading to nearby resorts. It’s a nice place for a week’s city break, during which you can enjoy Rijeka’s fascinating history, great restaurants and kicking year-round nightlife. This is not a tourist-oriented city, which is part of its charm: in Rijeka, you will be dining, drinking and dancing with locals.
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