Sarıyer guide

Want to enjoy a weekend breakfast nestled in a lush garden or savor a romantic dinner that brings back memories of your last vacation – all without straying too far from the city? Now there’s a place where you can do just that. Ahali 279 boasts a backyard that’s far bigger than you’d expect, making it the ideal place to take the whole family, as there are swings for kids and plenty of space for dogs to run around. Breakfast at Ahali comes with just about everything you’d expect from a proper Turkish spread, from Kars gravyer cheese to organic jams, ricotta with tapenade and much more.

The winner of the Best Burger category at the 15th Time Out İstanbul Eating & Drinking Awards, Jimmy’s Burger offers delicious 150-g and 200-g entrecôte beef burgers, with all of the meat procured from the restaurant’s own farms in the Çanakkale and Balıkesir Provinces. In addition to simple offerings like the aptly named Just Burger, Jimmy’s also serves unconventional combinations like the spicy Mad Burger, the bread-free Yeşil Burger with pesto sauce and the Kral Burger with tapenade. Indecisive eaters would do well to opt for the trio of mini burgers to mix and match flavors.

Dubbed Pizza Emirgan by neighborhood residents and regulars, this signless eatery serves up some of Istanbul's best Neapolitan pizza from its wood-fired oven, served at an elongated stool-lined bar or on the three or four tables out front. Pizza master Kadir Aytekin's menu features over 20 creative toppings like burrata sprinkled with cherry jam, beets with goat cheese, and slow cooked ribs. The five breakfast pizzas – including the delicious sucuk and egg pie – are served from 08:30 to 12:30. For dessert, you can opt for the classic Nutella pizza or the moreish tiramisu. Hidden behind the door of the cooler inside the pizzeria is Gizli Kalsın, Emirgan's 'secret' bar and noted celebrity hang-out.

This 'secret' spot in Emirgan is located behind the door of a cooler in the neighborhood's excellent Pizza Emirgan. Walk through the speakeasy refrigerator door and you'll find yourself in a sultry bar with live music, fine cocktails and a throng of Turkish celebrities living it up on any given day. The best part is that one's evening can be promptly soaked up when exiting into the pizzeria.

The main branch of the classic pudding shop/breakfast restaurant Sütiş is among the most coveted weekend breakfast spots in Istanbul and a neighborhood favorite for those living in and around Emirgan. A place to see and be seen, be prepared to encounter lots of fancy automobiles crowding the valet. Sütiş is a bit on the pricy side, but its breakfast spreads and egg dishes are fantastic, not to mention that you're sitting at the edge of the Bosphorus.

The New York neighbourhood bistro-inspired eatery La Boom offers a menu of assorted dishes meant to draw you in at any hour of the day, particularly if you’ve got the luxury of time to cosy up to breakfast or a cup of coffee overlooking the Bosphorus from its terrace. The venue takes on a more loungey atmosphere closer to evening, with the music turned up to coax visitors into trying their cocktails. La Boom's hip sushi bar Next Door turns into a club rolling into the late hours.

One of Istanbul's most distinguished seafood restaurants, İskele is a popular (albeit pricy) spot for its excellent fish and waterfront location. The menu features a wide variety of cold and hot meze, with the eggplant salad, marinated sea bass, fried mussels and the İskele Special (a seafood stew served in a clay pot) among our favourites items.    

Going strong since 1895, Meşhur Sarıyer Börekçisi is the most well-known purveyor of börek, the delicious savory, flaky pastry generally eaten for breakfast but enjoyed all day long. A Sarıyer institution, Meşhur Sarıyer Börekçisi is part of why the district is synonymous with börek.

The brainchild of experienced restaurateur Gül Etker, Kiss the Frog specializes in inventive seafood dishes you likely won’t find anywhere else. Among our favorites was the octopus tandoori pizza from the wood-fired oven, which is served on squid ink and made with whole wheat sourdough upon request. If you’re a fan of sushi, the Rich Frog blending shrimp, surumi and octopus is a must-try. As for the grand finale, look to none other than the tantalizing After Eight profiteroles.

A classic family-owned restaurant, Havan’dan serves up delicious olive-oil dishes and meat-based main courses, but what really stole the show for us were the desserts, like the surprisingly light pumpkin pie. It’s no surprise that desserts are the only items permanently on the menu, which means you’ll get to try the cinnamon roll and white-chocolate brownie any time you visit Havan’dan. On Saturdays, the restaurant serves rib burgers: the beef ribs are rested in a spice rub for three days, then slow-cooked for seven hours before the fat is removed and the ribs are served with caramelized onions between homemade buns.

This historic yellow mansion located in Emirgan Korusu, which is among the most beautiful green spaces in the city, is a great place to enjoy breakfast or lunch in a luxurious setting at reasonable prices, owing to the fact that its restaurant is run by a municipality-owned company. Sarı Köşk is an ideal spot for the first meal of the day prior to exploring Emirgan Korusu.