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The insider's guide to Thaipusam

Written by
Time Out KL editors
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Significance of the chariot 
A century-old silver chariot leaves the Sri Mahamariamman Temple on Jalan Tun HS Lee every Thaipusam eve, and is led on a 16km procession to Batu Caves. The chariot is representative of Lord Murugan coming out onto the streets to greet the people. The disabled and the elderly take advantage of the moving chariot to present offerings of fruit, flowers or milk, something they’re incapable of doing at the packed compound of Batu Caves. Devotees are also seen breaking coconuts along the way; smashing the fruits on the ground is a symbol of annihilating ego and pride, and of submission to God.

Significance of the Kavadi 
According to the Hindu epics, the prestigious guru Agathiyar had instructed his disciple Idumban to bring him two mountains, Sivagiri and Sakthigiri. Idumban then carried the two mountains down on each shoulder, but not without stopping in Palani – where a reputable Lord Murugan shrine resides – to rest. Lord Murugan came along in disguise and didn’t warrant even a glance from Idumban. To teach Idumban a lesson, Lord Murugan sat on the mountain, now too heavy for Idumban to continue lifting, spurring a scuffle between the two. Expectedly, Idumban loses the battle and is killed, but then restored to life. Idumban belatedly repents his arrogance and asks for Lord Murugan to bless all kavadi bearers in the future. Presently, the kavadis carried on the shoulders of devotees are symbols of the two mountains. 
As advised by Siva Neri Selvar Siva Sri KKM Krishna Moorthy Gurukal, chief priest at the Devi Sri Karumariamman Temple in Rawang.

Batu Caves checkpoints

Shops 
Rows of stalls and shops are set up, selling Indian snacks (vadai, murukku, etc), Hindu prayer items, household items, CDs and toys. It’s like an amplified, raucous Indian flea market. 

Food stalls 
Vegetarian food stalls may overspill with customers, but if you get a seat, order a warm dosa with multiple chutneys and a cup of masala tea. Hygiene is questionable, but 2 million visitors in a single day generally cause littered sidewalks. 

Cave Villa 
At the foot of the hill is Cave Villa, a cluster of cave temples that houses statues of deities and wall illustrations of Hindu epics. Learn about Lord Murugan’s vanquishing of the evil Soorapadam and the leadup to the origins of Thaipusam. 

Lord Murugan statue 
Erected in 2006, the gold-painted Lord Murugan statue has become something of a trademark of Batu Caves. The towering 43-metre figure is the tallest statue of a Hindu deity in Malaysia and second tallest in the world. Just past the statue are the temple’s iconic steps; keep on the left lane for entry into the cave, and the right for exit. 

Lord Murugan shrine 
Most visitors come to pray at this cave temple, a beautiful structure dedicated to Lord Murugan. It is also the finish line for kavadi bearers after braving the steep stairs of 272 steps (there’s a dedicated lane for them during the festival). The suspended stalactites and narrow stream of sunlight from the cave’s opening make it a Hindu shrine like no other.

What to wear to Batu Caves

1. Wear comfortable, cheap shoes and bring an extra pair. If you’re leaving your shoes by the foot of the temple, you may never find them again in the sea of shoes.
2. Wear loose cotton clothing; no shorts. 
3. If you don’t want to be pushed and shoved, avoid bringing bulky bags. A small sling or knapsack with a bottle of water, a face cloth and a hand sanitiser is fine. 

How to get to Batu Caves

As several roads will be closed for the festival, it's better to take public transportation. Take the KTM Komuter to Batu Caves station using the Seremban-Batu Caves line. From KL Sentral, it takes 20 minutes.

Thaipusam falls on Wed Jan 31 2018. Read more about Thaipusam in our feature

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