I’ve always had a soft spot for this resolutely gorgeous Grade-II listed shopfront in the hectic stretch between Dalston K and Dalston J; the lands where Amazon Fresh comes to die, the pubs are of a distinctly flag-shaggy persuasion, and you’ll never go wanting for fast, fried food. Exale Brewery have boldly stepped into the fray, introducing new life into this old F Cooke pie and mash shop, formerly home to much-missed Chinese restaurant Shanghai, and – most recently – that preposterous thing, a board game cafe.
The exquisitely-tiled front room is a calling card for Art Nouveau ultras
The Black Eel – a reference to its past as a cockney canteen – is what we hope will be this building’s final form; a convivial and surprisingly cavernous bar with so many rooms that you might get lost, especially if you’ve been sipping Exale’s 5.8% Oona Neipa. There’s the exquisitely-tiled and elegant front room – a calling card for Art Nouveau ultras – as well as a Victorian side den, a sprawling main lounge, an area for darts and shuffleboard, a huge beer garden (complete with a boat and pétanque court), and a leopard-print carpeted private karaoke room right at the top, complete with a sturdy safe into which you can bundle any substandard singers. It has more in common with Rowans at 10pm on a Friday than it does a quaint backstreet boozer, but come party season, this place will be packed.
Since opening their taproom on Blackhorse Lane, indie brewers Exale have been on a bit of a roll, launching well-curated, and endearingly leftfield east-London bars at a respectable pace, first the Three Colts Tavern in Bethnal Green and then William The IV in Leyton - home to award-winning pizza. The Black Eel is their most central yet, with more than its share of passing – and thirsty – trade. With a space this big, food is a necessity and they’ve got former Lagom head chef Billy Fisher, who’s slinging out decent small plates, from gooey cheddar and leek croquettes, to juicy filet o’fish-style buns, crisp breaded chicken thighs with nduja butter and ranch, and, our favourite, marvellously murky marinated mushrooms and garlic on toast.
The vibe A massive adult playpen on the rowdiest part of the Dalston strip.
The food Elevated pub fare, including Sunday roasts and, for some reason, a great Basque cheesecake.
The drink Exale’s own IPAs, lagers and sours, as well a creative cocktail menu and natty wines. Peak east London, really.
Time Out tip Their electronic dartboards are addictive. They’re real darts, but wired up to a computer so you don’t have to do any counting at all, a godsend when you’re tipsy.