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Feeling peckish? Mam Sham are here to save your wallet

We’ve teamed up with the city’s buzziest culinary duo to present our best cheap eats in London

Two women posing next to a giant piece of sushi
Photograph: Jess Hand for Time Out
Photograph: Jess Hand for Time Out
Leonie Cooper
Written by
Leonie Cooper
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Bad news: restaurant prices are soaring, the ongoing cost of living crisis means eating out is fast becoming a luxury few of us can afford, and you’re utterly skint after the festive season. But there’s good news too; it’s still possible to feast in London for a fair price – you just have to know where to look. Guiding us through the city’s finest cheap eats are supper club supremos and hospitality heroes Mam Sham, aka Maria Georgiou and Rhiannon Butler. They know exactly where to get fed for under £10, and have added Clapton’s Hai Cafe, Epping Forest’s Oyster Shack and Peckham’s Yemanes food truck to our bargain-friendly, belly-filling best cheap eats in London list

Maria and Rhiannon met on the first day of secondary school and have been best mates ever since. After spending their early twenties working front of house in various London restaurants, while simultaneously exhausting themselves doing unpaid internships in advertising and art, the duo decided to branch out. ‘We just wanted to be creative and nobody was letting us do that – so we were like, ‘‘let’s do our own thing’’. That was almost eight years ago,’ says Maria.

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The result was Mam Sham; a supper club where awkward small talk between courses is replaced by comedians, onstage skits and high concept hosting duties. ‘We created our perfect night out – eating, laughing and drinking,’ explains Rhiannon. The food is just as fabulous, with interactive dining props (butter in a twist-up deodorant stick, anyone?) and three course banquets provided by some of the city’s finest chefs and restaurants, from Big Has to Lucky & Joy. Their next night features their biggest names so far; Starstruck’s Rose Mataefo and Off Menu’s Ed Gamble will be cracking the jokes while Ling Lings x Mambow, FKA Black Axe Mangal and Supa Ya Ramen get busy in the kitchen. Every event is for charity too, with money raised for Choose Love, Pad Project, Refugee Women’s Centre and Calm. 

So what’s Mam Sham’s advice on finding good, decently priced food in London? Well, stop looking at your phone for starters. ‘Just walk around an area – there are so many incredible places to eat, but they don’t have a website or they don’t have an Instagram,’ explains Rhiannon. ‘People rely so heavily on digital to know where to go to dinner, but it wasn’t always like that. You can just go down the street and have a look!’ Maria adds: ‘Follow chefs who you admire; you’ll see someone like Melissa Thompson posting about meals she’s had at amazing local spots.’

The next Mam Sham supper club takes place on January 18 at Here at Outernet.

Photographer: Jess Hand @jesshandphotography
Design Director: Bryan Mayes @bryanmayesdotcom
Senior Designer: @818FPV
Photo Editor: Laura Gallant @lauramgallant
Stylist: Kiera Liberati @kieraliberati
Hair: Chrissy Hutton @chrissyhuttonhair
Make Up: Emma Regan @emmareganmakeup

Mam Sham’s Favourite London Cheap Eats

Blankita’s sancocho, £5

Maria: ‘It’s my favourite spot to have lunch in London. My sister lives in Tottenham and introduced me to this “amazing Colombian spot you guys have to go to’”. It feels like you’re in their home – so don’t be loud and obnoxious! Respect it. But it’s so fun, they always have great music playing. The sancocho is really flavourful – it’s made with potatoes, plantain, meat on the bone and yuca. It really fills you up.’

Rhiannon: ‘It’s been stewed for hours and hours and hours, so it’s like a broth. Then you’ve got to add their chilli sauce.’

Maria: ‘That whole strip by the Seven Sisters station is excellent – there are loads of great Latin shops where you can buy anything from sauces to pastries. Latin Village was at risk of closing down forever and being turned into luxury flats, so make sure you go appreciate this amazing space that people have fought hard to preserve.’

Rhiannon: ‘They also have really good Brazilian butchers around there who have the biggest array of different meats.’

Blankita, Seven Sisters Market

Oyster Shack’s shell on prawns, £6.50 (pint)

Maria: ‘You might have to borrow your mate’s car to get there. It’s in the middle of Epping Forest next to a massive pub, which apparently has a pool?! It’s all very extra. The Oyster Shack is what is says on the tin – it also has a large fish selection – and it feels quite old school East End which I love.’ 

Rhiannon: ‘I love the herring rollmops. They do a selection of cold seafood but they also cook stuff there, so you can get amazing scallops and hot lobster. It’s incredibly affordable – you can go and have an absolute feast and it’ll be nothing like the prices you pay at a seafood restaurant in town.’

Maria: ‘The specials are always really good, but I love cold prawns with a little slice of baguette – that’s my thing. You can get a drink from next door too, so if you want to spend a little bit more go and get a bottle of white wine.’

Rhiannon: ‘It’s all outside and you can go for a nice walk in Epping Forest afterwards. It’s a full day out!’ 

Oyster Shack & Seafood Bar, Epping Forest

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Hai Cafe’s mango salad, £9 (£7 takeaway)

Rhiannon: ‘I used to live around the corner and would just go there relentlessly. I even worked front of house there. The mum is so lovely. She rules the roost and makes everything. The dad works in the back serving soups and the son serves out the front. She wanted to create somewhere everyone could eat, so the chicken curry should be more expensive than the tofu curry, but it’s not. I just think that is the nicest, most amazing way to run a business. She’d always dreamed of being a chef so she started cooking in Spitalfields market and from that opened her own Vietnamese restaurant.’ 

Maria: ‘It’s hard to get a seat there, but if you can't they do takeaway which is a couple of quid cheaper.’ 

Rhiannon: ‘Everything on the menu is unreal. The mango salad is so special because she makes every single component from scratch – just like everything else on the menu – she makes the amazing pickles, the crispy onion and her dressings. I don’t think you will get a flavour like she creates in your mouth at any other restaurant in London. All the recipes were passed down in her family which makes it even more special.’

Hai Cafe, Clapton

Toconoco’s set lunch menu, £8.90

Rhiannon: ‘It’s just down the canal and quite an unassuming Japanese cafe, but what they care about is the quality of the food. They haven’t put thousands of pounds into creating a bougie space, it’s just a really nice café where you can eat outside on the canal. Everything on their menu is under a tenner; breakfast, lunch, any meal deal. What I love about it is that you get a real selection of different bits on your plate. You don’t just get a big bowl of noodles, you get some rice, you get some fried chicken, you get some pickles, you get a seaweed salad, then you get a bowl of soup. All of that is included. And it changes every week.’

Maria: ‘You can never get bored of it.’

Rhiannon: ‘It’s also a community cafe, so it’s got a space at the back which kids can play in – but if you go on the weekend there aren’t many children.’

Toconoco, Haggerston

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Yemanes’ chicken shawarma wrap, £6

Maria: ‘We do a radio show every month on Foundation.FM, which used to be based in Peckham. We were always starving by the time we’d finished yapping for two hours and we’d always head to Yemenes.’

Rhiannon: ‘It’s a truck just off the high street, and they make all the bread fresh in front of you for your wrap. It’s where everyone goes, because it's under a tenner and it’s unreal. You can get falafel, you can get halloumi, you can get chicken… but it’s really all about the sauces. I get the chicken shawarma with everything on it.’

Maria: ‘Get every single sauce on the bottom of the wrap – there’s like, six of them. It’s so big sometimes you can’t eat it all… actually, I can always eat it all.’

Yemanes, Peckham

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