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Illustration: Rob Flowers

London chefs share their non-festive Christmas food traditions

Mushy peas with your turkey, anyone?

Isabelle Aron
Edited by
Isabelle Aron
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Forget dry turkey and gravy – we asked London chefs to share their most unorthodox Christmas food traditions.

A controversial Christmas dinner addition

‘On Christmas Eve we always have a pork bap of some kind. Whether that’s some sausages from the butcher or a slow-cooked pork shoulder (a good trick is to rub a fajita spice packet mix on it before cooking). We go to the pub and then head home for a couple of baps. No ketchup! Lots of butter instead. If you want a really lowbrow tradition, in our house we have mushy peas with our Christmas dinner. It will change your life.’ Pip Lacey, Hicce

A Christmas Eve lasagne

‘We’ve never really been much of a traditional family in lots of ways, but my mother makes a Christmas Eve lasagne every single year without fail. It’s a variation of Jamie Oliver’s “Ministry of Food” recipe where he replaces the white sauce with crème fraîche. It wouldn’t be Christmas without it.’ Simon Shand, Leroy

A takeaway pizza

‘After the last shift before the Christmas break, it’s time for some drinks. On the menu for me is rum and coke and  takeaway pizza. My current favourite is Detroit Pizza in Battersea – it’s wicked and satisfying in a naughty way. On Christmas Day, I like to kick things off with a basic sausage sandwich – sliced bread, loads of butter and a little red sauce.’ Fred Smith, Flat Iron

A Christmas Day breakfast of champions

‘If I’m in London, I’d go to The Bull & Last [in Kentish Town] and start the day with at least two Bloody Marys and a couple of their scotch eggs. Alternatively, The Guinea Grill’s devilled kidneys on toast and a pint of Guinness would do me very well indeed…’ Luca Dusi Passione, Vino

A Sri Lankan bubble and squeak

‘I always crave a spicy meal after a week of festive cooking. A dish that works wonders with leftovers is kothu roti – think of it as a Sri Lankan bubble and squeak. Shredded roti, eggs, vegetables, meat and curry sauce, all tossed together in a wok and garnished with coriander and lots of spring onions. It’s a great way to use up shredded brussels sprouts, cooked turkey, carrots, shallots, onions and other greens you have lying about after your Christmas lunch.’ Karan Gokani, Hoppers

A Christmas eve Chinese takeaway

‘Eating Chinese food is a longstanding tradition around Christmas, as Chinese restaurants are often the only places open. I love a good lo mein noodle dish or an egg roll. I’ve found myself at Wok to Walk in Piccadilly after many Christmas Eve services. There’s something strangely festive about eating noodles on a deserted street at midnight.’ Judy Joo, Seoul Bird

A soothing leftover soup

‘After Christmas, I crave ramen. A roast turkey for Christmas means you can make a great stock from the bones. A good ramen is best kept simple. I make mine with stock which is seasoned simply with salt, and add a soft boiled egg, some sliced meat – in this case turkey – and soba noodles. I finish the soup with soy sauce, chilli oil or mirin. With a good bowl of ramen and a cold beer, that feeling that Christmas is finally over!’ Adam Byatt, Charlie’s at Browns Hotel

In the mood for some properly festive food?

Chin Chin has created an edible Christmas tree.

This is what your favourite Quality Street says about you.

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