Restaurateurs Chris Corbin and Jeremy King, creators of the Wolseley and the Delaunay, have struck gold with this grand art deco basement brasserie. It’s a huge set-up and attracts a mix of tourists, office types and couples. Affordable French staples are the big draw and set menus start at under a tenner for two courses. In the months after it opened, we’d been impressed by the quality of cooking and on-the-ball service, but recently we’ve detected a dip in standards.
In a meal of hits and misses, highlights included a generous main course of beef bourguignon – meaty chunks simmered in a robust red wine-onion-garlic sauce, accompanied by buttery mash. The haché steak was less impressive, though; instead of chopped meat being shaped and loosely held together, we were presented with a salty, overcooked burger patty. Chocolate profiteroles helped to restore faith – the perfectly baked crisp globes of choux pastry, crammed with splendid whipped vanilla cream, went down a treat with an indulgent chocolate sauce.
The house wine, priced at bargain basement rates, provides great value. Let’s hope the kitchen brigade is back on track soon, and service staff numbers are increased at busy times.
The feel of the restaurant and the menu are reminiscent of a typical Parisian brasserie on a grand scale, offering French classics such as choucroute, bœuf bourguignon and ile flottante. Our prix fixe offerings have become a firm favourite with two courses for under £10. A live band plays every night after 9.30pm.
Café ZL, the rather relaxed French café and entrance to The Brasserie, is open for a croissant in the morning or a glass of wine on the terrace in the evening.
|Venue name:||Brasserie Zédel||Contact:|
20 Sherwood Street
|Opening hours:||Monday to Saturday – 11.30am to midnight, Sundays – 11.30am to 11.30pm|
|Transport:||Tube: Piccadilly Circus|
|Price:||2 courses- £ 9.75 3 courses- £12.50|
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