Elystan Street

Restaurants, British South Kensington
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A sleek modern European spot from The Square’s Phil Howard.

Phil Howard’s Elystan Street is a good restaurant: of that there’s no doubt. What it’s not – in a food city as progressive and egalitarian as London c.2016 – is exciting. Don’t get me wrong; this kind of high-end modern European fare – meticulously presented in warm, low-lit surrounds – is hard to fault, but it’s also tough to peg who it’s really for, bar the deep-pocketed denizens of Chelsea. Service was too perfunctory to be memorable or make this a ‘special occasion’ destination restaurant.

The food is objectively delicious though, with a starter of calf’s sweetbreads with autumn slaw its immaculate apex; creamy, yielding offal topped with toasted almonds and crunchy poppy seeds, an earthy hum ever-present from truffle and shaved artichoke.

Next, a plate of pata negra cheek and pluma may have been puckeringly rich, but also came with a bitter chapstick-smear of grapefruit, a god-given respite from all the salt and jus; while a mallard dish saw perfect pink flesh flounced on a cloying bed of squash, and a gamey little parcel of leg meat. To end: a sharp ball of lime-flecked passion fruit ice cream, exactly what was needed after all the soporific heaviness.

But my god, the price – dinner for two with a single glass of house red pipped £160, and for that reason alone this place feels like an anachronism. But hey, I’m a millennial, and I sincerely doubt Howard or his ruddy, blazered clientele mind much.

Elystan Street will almost certainly be Michelin-starred in a year’s time (Howard’s alma mater, The Square, had two stars, and those twinklers always follow the chefs, despite the official line) – so who’ll be laughing then?

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Elystan Street says
The new restaurant from chef Phil Howard, formerly holder of two Michelin stars at The Square. Elystan Street will have a different approach to The Square – the same exacting standards of cooking, but a more relaxed dining experience. Expect pure, clean, light dishes full of vitality and flavour.
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By: Tom Howells

Posted:

Venue name: Elystan Street
Contact:
Address: 43 Elystan St
London
SW3 3NT
Transport: Tube: South Kensington
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £180.
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Average User Rating

5 / 5

Rating Breakdown

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Now here is a fresh restaurant in Chelsea. This fills the gap Tom Aikens left in more than one way. The food is creative and delicious, the wine list second to none and the whole served with a smile in a relaxed atmosphere. This is going to be huge. Book early.