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Hawksmoor Air Street

Restaurants, British Regent Street
Recommended
4 out of 5 stars
Hawksmoor Air Street
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 (© Toby Keane)
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© Toby Keane

Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

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A Piccadilly branch of the famous steak mini-chain.

Vast, low-ceilinged and thunderously loud, this branch of the famous steakhouse is a good place to eat dinner if life, lately, has felt underwhelming. Someone attractive takes your coat at the door, then someone even more attractive ushers you upstairs and walks you through the fabulously long, low-lit restaurant to your table. The place is heaving, with dark green leather booths, mirrored walls and steak knives clattering on monogrammed tableware. If eating out is an exercise in escape – from financial responsibility, or another night in with your partner – it doesn’t get better than Hawksmoor.

It would be a massive waste of opportunity not to order a steak. The T-bone was so rich and unwieldy that biting in guarantees juice trickling down your chin. The fillet was a fat little hunk of dark meat served blush pink in the middle, only slightly tarnished by a small seam of fat running through it. The Doddington Caesar side – a Hawksmoor speciality – was two slender lettuce leaves propped up in a little bowl like flowers, and topped with soft grated parmesan and anchovy. Interestingly, the very best dish was also a salad: shavings of Jerusalem artichoke and celery dressed with lemon and cut through with sharp sheep’s cheese. There was also an evening-defining caramel tart, served with a silky dollop of creme fraiche.

It was the obvious things that disappointed. This Air Street branch specialises in fish as well as steak, but the scallops were drenched in garlic butter, and had a strange, almost grainy texture. Creamed spinach was extremely bland. When you’re paying this much for dinner (a good meal will cost upwards of £50 per person) – less than perfect dishes can make you feel bitter. But in truth, you’re here for the experience. Which delivers. Go here if you want to feel (and spend) like you’re special.

Details

Address: 5A Air Street
London
W1J 0AD
Transport: Tube: Piccadilly Circus
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £140.
Contact:
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