Like reaching for ABBA Gold in times of house-party crisis, Hawksmoor is a trusty and reliable failsafe. The ultimate in crowdpleasers, this super-solid steakhouse chain has been impressing carnivores and cocktail-quaffers since its inception in 2006. It’s been a while since these meat magicians launched a new London branch of their midi-chain but they’ve made up for lost time by taking over one of the grandest dining rooms in the city.
Gutbusting done with a dose of glamour
The stunning space inside the Grade I-listed St Pancras London Hotel, with its double-height ceilings, intricate molding, and uber-extra glitz was designed in 1873 by the daddy of gothic revival architects, Sir George Gilbert Scott. Closed in 1935, the dramatic room was then used as railway offices until the building reopened as a hotel in 2011. A number of different chefs have had their fun with the room since then, but its current form seems to suit it the most; a fittingly luxe backdrop for one of London’s most indulgent menus. There have been a few minor tweaks to the space; the walls are now a rather butch shade of British racing green, the booths are leather, and there’s a quite unnecessary, gigantic poster that reads ‘Beef and Liberty’, which we can only assume is the sweaty carnivore's own version of ‘Live, Laugh, Love’.
Aside from the space and the adjoining Martini Bar, there’s not much about this Hawksmoor that sets it apart from the others. Simply put; steakheads will remain satisfied with the relentless offering of Victorian chop house-adjacent meats and hearty sides.
Start your feast with a Dukes Bar-inspired martini (you’re only allowed two, lest you get so spannered you streak across the Spice Girls ‘Wannabe’ staircase, which is handily situated just outside the dining room) and some heroically crispy beef-dripping hash browns before moving onto your choice of chateaubriand, bone-in prime rib, porterhouse, t-bone and more (all from British-reared cattle). Go extra decadent and plump for anchovy or Cornish blue hollandaise. The sides remain legendary; macaroni cheese comes with a crumbled breadcrumb top, chips and fries are beef dripping-addled, and, if you must, there are green things; creamed spinach, a caesar salad, buttered sprouts. There’s a decent seafood menu too, with native lobster, dressed Devon crab, oysters, and grilled monkfish all on offer. But you’re here for the meat; we know it, you know it, everybody knows it.
For gutbusting done with a dose of glamour, Hawksmoor St Pancras delivers.
The vibe Classic British dining that’s old school but accessible.
The food Steaks and seafood.
The drink A whole martini menu as well as a hefty wine list. On Mondays you can bring your own bottle of wine and the corkage charge is just £5.
Time Out tip Begin your descent into gout with a drink at the lavish Martini Bar; an even more impressive space than the main dining room.