A roaming, contempo Cantonese-inspired concept from chef Jenny Phung and partner James ‘Shep’ Shepherd, Ling Ling’s has been bobbing happily around north-east London for the past few years.
Favouring long-term residencies over a restaurant of their own (and in this climate, who can blame them?), there have been successful stints at The Gun in Hackney (RIP), as well as The Bluecoats in Tottenham, and Bambi in London Fields. The latest in their nomadic tour de kitchen? A year-long set-up at hip - but mercifully not too hip – ‘wine pub’ Godet.
Lowkey Ling Ling’s happens to be one of the best places to eat in London right now
A kind of Provençal country cottage meets a grubby old scroat boozer, Godet is quietly lovely. Painted an eccentric shade of depressive tangerine, there are French farmyard–friendly wooden tables, cutesy cafe curtains, the occasional church pew, jugs full of fresh flowers, and candles on every table. Vintage dub reggae drifts discreetly throughout the 19th century pub, which was once known as the Norfork Arms, courtesy of a vinyl-only real life human DJ. The romance is palpable. Despite this discreet backdrop, Ling Ling’s swiftly sets about trying to get into your pants with full-throttle flavour and seductive kitchen technique.
First in the Ling Ling’s charm offensive is exceedingly crunchy fried pork and water chestnut wontons, their fresh and juicy insides complimenting their bubbly golden wrappers. The fact that they look like the platonic ideal of a crispy wonton, with perfectly puckered tops, doesn’t harm things either. Radish cakes are equally satisfying, and prove that Phung is a titan of texture, the savoury stack retaining their crispness despite being slathered in soy pomegranate dressing.
A platter of flirty mapo radishes and cucumber continues the crunchy onslaught, making way for some delightfully sloppy charred hispi cabbage with pickles and hoisin. Do we, as a city, need yet another hispi cabbage dish? If you’d asked me moments before setting foot inside Godet, I would have said no, but Ling Ling’s have changed my mind. Here, the omnipresent brassica has been released from its small-plates prison and been given a new lease of life, slathered in an ultra umami, near-nutty sauce, making it a wonderfully wet foil to the crunch of before.
Glass-skin chicken offers yet more variety in consistency; soft and bouncy meat resting in a thin but extra-flavourful broth, tender shimeji mushrooms and tong ho greens adding to the addictive, soupy melee. Take a chance on the octopus too, immaculately cooked (no unasked-for chewiness here) and with crispy tentacles, served alongside another blinding sauce; this one a creamy, semi-sweet coconut sambal drizzled with lime leaf oil.
Cookery like this takes real skill, but despite evident behind-the-scenes complexity, not one of the dishes at Ling Ling’s seems fussy or fiddly. Lowkey Ling Ling’s just so happens to be one of the best places to eat in London right now. Just don’t all rush at once.
The vibe New-gen Islingtonites drinking good wine in a low-lit and lovely old pub.
The food Homely yet super cheffy Chinese food.
The drink You’re in a wine bar, so go hard on the vino. There’s an ever-shifting French list with lots of good stuff by the glass, including Champagne for £12 a pop.
Time Out tip One of London’s best wine bars, Godet is a great place for a date.