Ornella is a bit of a looker. Sat on London Fields’ village-y Wilton Way, its quaint, butterscotch exterior gleams, and, as if placed there by central casting, two elegant girlies sip orange wine in the Sunday afternoon sunshine. It’s a Pinterest-perfect scene, and inside is even more aesthetically perfect; half-pannelled wood walls, a 1960s trattoria energy, and daubed floral paintings that have either been done by a six-year-old genius or a 78-year-old drunk. Either way, lovely stuff.
Tajarin al brodo di cipolla is a lesson in minimalism
The latest from the team behind Highbury’s Lupa (which does hearty Roman cookery, such as creamy pastas with plenty of guanciale, as well as hunks of porchetta and salty spuds), Ornella’s thing is contrastingly chic Milanese cuisine, meaning everything is a little more stripped back. For some dishes this works a treat, the tajarin al brodo di cipolla is a lesson in minimalism; a dark and moody roscoff onion broth provides a murky moat around a proud hillock of tagliolini, with two squares of molten cheese on toast provided for mopping up purposes. Branzino in a bag is also impressive, the sea bass flaky, the beurre blanc heroically buttery, and a fresh and bright preboggion sauce of green herbs to add into the mix. Yet our chicken Milanese, though cooked well, lacks pizzaz. Unlike the fennel and apple-accessorised version at Tiella down the road, there’s little to tart up this smashed cutlet aside from mayo. For £26, couldn’t they have served it with a little salad? Luckily, my guest is up for sharing her preboggion. Roasted veg - though pretty - needs some salt, and seabream tartare lacks finesse, with somewhat flavourless fish fighting for supremacy against a zingy sauce and glum hunks of pear. Happily, zuppa inglese trifle brings dinner to a creamy conclusion - thick set custard and demi-set chocolate layers peering out of a classy glass dish.
Ornella strives for casual simplicity, but needs a little more flair to truly set it apart from the host of equally attractive Italians (Tiella, Auguste, Dalla and even its older sibling Lupa) that have opened in Hackney lately.
The vibe A very chic Hackney space on cosy Wilton Way.
The food Milanese classics, with pasta primis and mains such as beef stew and veal Milanese.
The drink Classy cocktails, including a potent fig leaf martini and tangy almond and grape sour.
Time Out tip Pasta in brodo is kind of a big deal right now, and Ornella’s is up there with the best.