Amazing modernist cooking in a casual, good-looking Clapham bistro.
Most of London’s really exciting new restaurants open in the centre of town – and you’ll pay two limbs for the pleasure of eating in them. So when somewhere special opens in a residential area, word gets around. This last happened in Clapham in 2013, when The Dairy – a wine and British tapas bar –introduced an innovative, but reasonably priced small plates menu to the neighbourhood.
The Manor is run by the same team, but this time has a fully fledged dining room as well as a bar. Prices are a little higher – but still reasonable – as the cooking has gone up a few notches, too. The Manor looks and feels casual, like a slightly more grown-up version of The Dairy, despite the graffiti, old desks and industrial light fittings. But the imagination and skill of the kitchen places it among the city’s most cutting-edge restaurants: The Clove Club, Story or Lyle’s, to give just a few examples.
Case in point: two slivers of meat resembling pork belly were in fact crisp chicken skin. Something that resembled soft cheese turned out to be the flesh from a cod’s head mixed with sour cream.
Fermentation, one of the most transformative kitchen techniques, is used to good effect on the ‘malt granola’ and fermented grains, both served with the claw-on leg and breast of partridge. The New Nordic technique of scorching and burning is used successfully on both kale and cauliflower, and a smoky aubergine purée (coloured green using mint) served with Irish-inspired potato scones was sublime. There’s a tasting menu (£42 without wine) but the à la carte features the same dishes. Whatever you choose, it’s official: modernist cooking has arrived in SW4.
For dessert, head to the bar stools at the ‘sweet shop’ counter to watch the pastry chef blast liquid nitrogen from a laboratory-style tap to create ultra-smooth ice cream. Sundae bar toppings include nuts, honeycombs, popcorns and meringues. Or have frozen-to-order chocolate fondant with dulce de leche and baked ‘milk foam’.
The drinks bar is terrific for a snack, though it’s a proper come-as-you-are place to pop in for a drink, filled with a stylishly casual mix of drinkers and diners, including one hardy lass wearing a sequinned bikini top on our visit. The kombucha sours cocktail tasted of citrus, tea and the tart notes resulting from the kombucha fermentation. There’s also an interesting selection of craft beers and a good wine list. Clapham folk are very lucky to have The Manor in their manor.
|Venue name:||The Manor||Contact:|
148 Clapham Manor Street
|Opening hours:||Tues 6-9.45pm; Wed-Sat noon-2.45pm, 6-9.45pm; Sun noon-2.45pm.|
|Price:||Dinner for two with wine and service: around £100.|
|Do you own this business?|
Average User Rating
4.6 / 5
- 5 star:14
- 4 star:2
- 3 star:0
- 2 star:0
- 1 star:1
went here as a super date night treat with the bf and it was so delicious. We did the smaller tasting menu and did doubt that we might not be full afterwards (like with all tasting menus), but oh how wrong we were. The food was delicious and there was plenty of it. Definitely recommend. The staff were super lovely as well.
Beautiful dining room with exquisite food. Staff are all really friendly too and there is a dessert bar!
Outstanding food - funkier decor than The Dairy, like it's cooler older brother. Would definitely go back.
I came to The Manor after seeing its profile and recommendation on Time Out. My partner and I wanted to have a nice lunch during our travel in London, and I would have to say this was the best meal I've had in quite a while (London and otherwise)! The two of us had the tasting menu for our lunch reservation, and we also had to order a few more appetizer dishes because we were very excited by the creative menu. I thoroughly enjoyed how different ingredients complemented one another, and the dishes pleasantly excited our taste palette. The service was also impeccable - our waiter was extremely pleasant and knowledgable about the dishes, and gave us great recommendations. The ambience and setting of the restaurant was also superb - the space has a serene, beautiful, and rustic quality. I highly recommend it! :)
I don't normally spend £100 on lunch for myself. Or drink 6 different wines in one meal (sparkling, rose, albarino, mouvedre, port, sweet semillon).
But it was my birthday and I was celebrating another year of life and honouring my partner's recent death.
So I went to The Manor in Clapham and I see why it's one of Timeout's Top 10 restaurants in London.
The service was attentive, friendly and knowledgable without being intrusive or cloying. The food -- I had the lunch tasting menu (7 courses!) with the paired 'flights' of wine -- was elegant, delicious, beautiful, creative and satisfying. (Nothing worse than expensive, technical micro-cuisine that has no soul... this was not that!)
Thank-you everyone for a lovely afternoon in a difficult time -- and for all the little touches (adjusting the dishes for my allergies, and the dairy free dessert. Who knew rhubarb and sorbet could be so tasty!!)
Go. You won't be sorry :-)
We just had their set lunch menu and it's phenomenally good value - £25 for four exceptionally impressive courses. We took the opportunity to splash out on a decent bottle of wine, of which there are many. A fantastic restaurant.
I went here the other night and had a fantastic meal. The food was spot on and the service excellent!
Lunch: 3 plates with a glass of bubbles £20
From a set menu, also 4 plates for £25.Offer valid until May 16 2017