If you’ve tried Xi’an food in London, chances are you’ve already tasted Guirong Wei’s genre-defining cooking. As the force behind cult favourites Master Wei and Xi’an Impression, she’s played a central role in broadening the city’s understanding of regional Chinese cuisine, introducing biang biang noodles and refreshing liang pi to a landscape once dominated by Cantonese and Sichuanese staples.
Don’t skip the silky pig ear salad
Her latest opening, tucked away in Fulham, expands the focus. ‘People often don’t realise how varied Xi’an food is,’ Wei tells me. ‘We love cold dishes and we especially love dumplings.’ At The Wei, these alternative Xi’an favourites take centre stage.
In Chinese culture, dumplings are more of a cultural anchor than a meal. Wei lights up as she explains: ‘Making dumplings always marks a festive occasion. It’s what we eat for Lunar New Year, for good luck and fortune. It’s what families do together.’ That sense of togetherness carries through the restaurant itself. Despite this being her fifth opening, it’s the first time she’s working alongside her husband and son in the kitchen. Wei beams at her son practising his noodle technique, while her husband finishes dishes with a flourish of hot oil. Her ten-year-old daughter already loves making dumplings too - well on her way to becoming a ‘little Master Wei’, she adds proudly.
While her central spots are known for long queues and quick turnover, the pace here is noticeably calmer. On a Monday night it still filled up, but there was no pressure to rush. Dishes are served with the same unpretentious confidence that defines Guirong Wei’s style: pork and prawn dumplings with delicate skins and generous fillings, chilli-flecked chicken bites with a moreish crunch - and a Shaanxi favourite that looks at first glance like a plate of stir-fried noodles. Upon closer inspection, it’s much more intriguing: thin strips of potato, dusted in flour until they turn softly gelatinous in the wok, tangled with beef, peppers and beansprouts. Here, dessert leans savoury with sweet potato balls - their crunchy shell protecting a soft, mochi-like centre.
In a city where Wei has single-handedly pioneered the popularity of Xi’an cuisine, this opening feels like a more personal chapter - one that trades scale for sentiment. Here, the drama of hand-pulled noodles gives way to the peaceful rhythm of folding dumplings.
The vibe: A neighbourhood eatery warmed by family energy and Xi’an-inspired interiors.
The food: Wei’s signature Xi’an cooking, this time spotlighting steamed dumplings and chilli-laden Chinese salads.
The drink: Classic regional teas including tie guan yin and pu’er, alongside nostalgic glasses of chilled soy milk.
Time Out tip: Don’t skip the silky pig ear salad with its crunchy, addictive cartilage.