When Triple Beam Pizza launched along Figueroa Street earlier this year, chef Matt Molina and Silverlake Wine owners Randy Clement and Joe Capella planted a flag in a sleepy building complex, with the promise of more concepts to come. As of last night, what might be the most anticipated of them all finally arrived: Meet Hippo, a neighborhood spot serving shareable and approachable fare in one of the area's sleekest settings.
For all Highland Park’s trendiness—its booming vegan scene, its plentiful cocktail bars and gastropubs, and its ample quick-and-casual gems—the area is woefully short on neighborhood restaurants: the kinds of places where date nights can still feel like a treat without a splurge, where everyone in the family—kids included—are comfortable, where residents can become regulars without a second thought, and where a well-rounded but accessible menu can appeal to the nibblers, the ravenous, the sharers, the picky eaters and the adventurous all at the same table. Hippo aims to help fill the void, serving something between what Molina fans may remember from his years at Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza, and his straightforward but always satisfying food program at Everson Royce Bar.
Photograph: Stephanie Breijo
Separated into appetizers, crudo, pasta and a section for meat, fish and game, Molina’s first full-service restaurant of his own offers a perfect situation for the mix-and-match enthusiasts, with a little something for nearly any craving. Those who like to branch out might opt for guinea hen and cocoa ravioli with rosemary and sauternes, or keep it classic and crisp with a refreshing wax bean and toasted-almond salad. Spice-friendly guests can tuck into vibrant harissa-rubbed roast chicken, while those looking to lighten up can do it with kumquat-topped hamachi crudo, then finish it all off with a summery stone fruit tarte tatin. All the dishes range between $8 and $25.
It’s a little bit of everything, with a clear focus on seasonality—meaning rotation can be expected—which is perfect for a neighborhood restaurant, and one that’s right in the thick of a community always hungry for more.
Take a peek inside Hippo, then stop by for dinner—and keep your eyes peeled for possible lunch and brunch rollouts in the future:
Photograph: Stephanie Breijo
Photograph: Stephanie Breijo
Photograph: Stephanie Breijo
Photograph: Stephanie Breijo
Photograph: Stephanie Breijo
Photograph: Stephanie Breijo
Photograph: Stephanie Breijo
Photograph: Stephanie Breijo
Photograph: Stephanie Breijo
Hippo is now open at 5916 1/2 N Figueroa St, keeping hours of 5 to 10pm Sunday and Tuesday to Thursday, and 5 to 11pm Friday and Saturday.