Antico Nuovo

After selling takeout pizzas and cartons of gelato to survive the pandemic, Antico turned over a new leaf, hence the addition of “Nuovo.” These days, Colby’s fairly popular restaurant offers a seasonal, rustic-leaning menu centered around an unforgettably fluffy focaccia (accompanied by various spreads), housemade pastas, wood-fired mains and silky rotating flavors of gelato, which first became famous during lockdown. You’ll also find lightly dressed salads, beautifully roasted vegetables and traditionally prepared crudo. For mains, regulars swear by the pollo e crostone, or chicken roasted over focaccia, and I can’t find a single fault with Colby’s preparation of veal sweetbreads, which pairs the chicken nugget-like morsels with maitake mushroom and marsala jus. The pastas are lovely as well, though in truth the pasta and mains here have never wowed me quite as much as Funke, Chi Spacca and Osteria Mozza (while being just as expensive). For best results, order an item from every menu section and double up on gelato and, if you’re a focaccia superfan, an additional loaf of bread and spread.