Restaurants, Italian Midtown East
 (Photograph: Virginia Rollison)
Photograph: Virginia RollisonBice Restaurant
 (Photograph: Virginia Rollison)
Photograph: Virginia RollisonBice Restaurant
 (Photograph: Virginia Rollison)
Photograph: Virginia RollisonBice Restaurant
Once-hot Bice is no longer trendy, but it still draws an affluent crowd of moms and daughters, partying colleagues and May-December romancers. Accented with burnished wood, the dining room shows no sign of wear, yet a certain ennui can be detected. Servers were indifferent, and the food lacked zest. Oversize portions only increased the chance of getting bored halfway through the meal. The menu does reveal some freshness, however: Tagliolini with sizable nuggets of sweet lobster and wild mushrooms in a chunky tomato sauce is made with top-notch ingredients, and the vegetables accompanying the meat entrées are sautéed to a tender, healthy green.


Venue name: Bice
Address: 7 E 54th St
New York
Cross street: between Fifth and Madison Aves
Opening hours: Mon–Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–11pm
Transport: Subway: E to Fifth Ave–53rd St, 6 to 51st St
Price: Average main course: $29. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V
Static map showing venue location