7 E 54th St
|Cross street:||between Fifth and Madison Aves|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–11pm|
|Transport:||Subway: E to Fifth Ave–53rd St, 6 to 51st St|
|Price:||Average main course: $29. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|
Once-hot Bice is no longer trendy, but it still draws an affluent crowd of moms and daughters, partying colleagues and May-December romancers. Accented with burnished wood, the dining room shows no sign of wear, yet a certain ennui can be detected. Servers were indifferent, and the food lacked zest. Oversize portions only increased the chance of getting bored halfway through the meal. The menu does reveal some freshness, however: Tagliolini with sizable nuggets of sweet lobster and wild mushrooms in a chunky tomato sauce is made with top-notch ingredients, and the vegetables accompanying the meat entrées are sautéed to a tender, healthy green.