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The former East 10th Street institution’s current space, though lacking some of the charm of its old location, still recalls a Gallic countryside bistro—down to the pleasingly rustic brunch menu. Slabs of croissant French toast resemble flaky elephant-ear pastry, and expertly poached eggs come with hollandaise and smoky chicken-and-apple sausage. Booths are up a flight of stairs, but the ramp into the first-floor dining room makes stroller navigation a breeze.