Le Marais

Relinquish your Times Square restaurant prejudices. Unlike its megachain neighbors, this kosher French bistro does most things well (dessert can be skipped) and some things superbly. Thank the on-site butcher for the dry-rubbed, meltingly tender beef short ribs and the piquant steak au poivre. The house frites are crisp and satisfying, and the cassoulet of seasonal vegetables will have even gentiles plotzing.