|Venue name:||Sirvino’s (CLOSED)|
60-19 Roosevelt Ave
|Cross street:||between 60th and 61st Sts|
|Opening hours:||Daily 11am–11pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 7 to 61st St–Woodside|
|Price:||Average main course: $13. AmEx, MC, V|
Sirvino’s is not a chain, but it has all the attributes of one: an extensive yet unadventurous menu filled with pastas, seafood and steaks; enormous portions; and softly playing elevator music. The giant space is well equipped to handle the packs of families that live in this traditionally Irish neighborhood; when we visited, many tables were pushed together to accommodate large groups. The service can be friendly, if a bit doting. One white-haired, grandfatherly waiter repeatedly referred to our party—two young females—as “little ones,” but he did seem genuinely interested in our progress as we attempted to finish off a gigantic plate of pasta arrabbiata with grilled chicken. Our conclusion: The sauce was thick and hearty but lacked spiciness, and the penne were limp. We liked the the shrimp cocktail appetizer—it’s hard to resist plump crustacean curled around the edge of a martini glass—but the cocktail sauce was chunky and gelatinous. Suffice it to say, the Olive Garden has nothing to worry about.