Telepan (CLOSED)

While a high chair may be out of place in Bill Telepan’s Upper West Side dining room, budding foodies will enjoy the grown-up vibe. Long a champion of the Greenmarket, the chef might treat them to house-made mozzarella ($16) paired with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and toasted garlic, or beet green and ricotta pierogi ($23). The star of the prix-fixe brunch ($32) is the grass-fed-beef burger with white cheddar, bacon and an onion ring “volcano” overflowing with fries.