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Restaurateur Steve Hanson’s one-size-fits-all take on barbecue doesn’t measure up to NYC’s more accomplished low-and-slow specialists. Hill Country defector “Big Lou” Elrose should be ashamed of Texas-derived offerings like the overly lean brisket; his Carolina efforts—like bone-dry pulled pork—aren’t much better. Ironically, the best dishes have little to do with ’cue: A succulent burger—made from chuck, sirloin and brisket and topped with bacon—might be one of the city’s best.