Restaurateur Steve Hanson’s one-size-fits-all take on barbecue doesn’t measure up to NYC’s more accomplished low-and-slow specialists. Hill Country defector “Big Lou” Elrose should be ashamed of Texas-derived offerings like the overly lean brisket; his Carolina efforts—like bone-dry pulled pork—aren’t much better. Ironically, the best dishes have little to do with ’cue: A succulent burger—made from chuck, sirloin and brisket and topped with bacon—might be one of the city’s best.
|Venue name:||Wildwood Barbeque (CLOSED)|
225 Park Ave South
|Cross street:||at 18th St|
|Opening hours:||Mon, Tue 11:30am–10pm; Wed, Thu 11:30am–11pm; Fri 11:30am–11:30pm; Sat noon–11:30pm; Sun noon–10pm|
|Transport:||Subway: L, N, Q, R, W, 4, 5, 6 to 14th St–Union Sq|
|Price:||Average main course: $20. AmEx, Disc, MC, V|