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New York isn’t lacking when it comes to finding a great steak. But it's not all just heavy wood-paneled rooms this and tufted plush booths that. In fact, the reason why our scene is so great is because of the contemporary takes on the art form, many of which draw influence on a global scale.
Daniel Boulud debuted his French-leaning ode to steak with La Tête d’Or last year, teasing us with Sweetbread Nuggets and French Wedge Salads before the pièce de resistance wheels up to the table: the prime rib trolley. Meanwhile, Korean-inflected steakhouses rank in their own category in NYC, as prime cuts are rubbed with shio kombu and koji at Gui Steakhouse and lamb chops are slicked with ssamjang at Golden Hof - Korean Bar & Grill (recently rebranded from NY Kimchi). Even this year, the title of the best steakhouse in the world went to the ever-buzzy Korean BBQ-slash-steakhouse that is Cote. Another global leaning steakhouse made its debut in midtown this summer and the influence here is all Mexico.
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Last month, Rockefeller Center welcomed Cuerno to its ranks, opening its doors on June 19. From co-founders Alberto Martínez and Victor Setién of the Costeño Group, the steakhouse pays tribute to Mexico’s culinary traditions, paying particular attention to its roots in live-fire grilling.
“Bringing Cuerno to New York City has been a longtime dream," said Martínez in a press release. “This opening represents the heart of who we are and where we come from. It’s a tribute to our roots, our culture, and the flavors we grew up with, and it gives us the opportunity to share the true spirit of Mexican hospitality with the world.”
The interior is certainly a handsome find with light woods intermixed with brick elements, curved booths wrapped in tan leather and an illuminated wine cellar stocked with varietals from the homeland of Mexico. It’s all framed by a mural from Saltillo-based artist Federico Jordán that sits in the dining room, fashioned from tiles made of soil that comes from northern Mexico. But that’s just a feature of one of the dining rooms as Cuerno houses over 200 seats across its bi-level property, including a lower level for seating with a corner dedicated to private dining and an outdoor patio right out front.
Putting the brand’s philosophy of “el servicio más chingón” to practice, each table starts with a complimentary frozen hibiscus margarita. It's then followed by a tray of chips and salsas, plural, as five different types hit the table, including a smoky matcha salsa. Shareables continue with Chihuahua cheese and chorizo-topped Queso Fundidos, salads that sub croutons for bits of fried pork chicharrón and cold hamachi slices lashed with chile chiltepín. There’s an entire section dedicated to tacos, be it the thinly sliced ribeye that nods to Mexico’s Taco el Chingón or the golden-fried, bite-sized branzino option, cooked Baja-style. Yet, the flashiest of them all goes to the Taco Taquero. More of an experience than just an entree, the $38 tacos include a tableside presentation where a chef chops pearl onions and ribeye steak together before spooning fire-roasted bone marrow over it. But make sure to hold onto the salsas to dress up your tacos, your way.
However, if you’d rather have a steak outside of the confines of a tortilla, you can have that too. Aged for 24 days, steaks are prepped in the kitchen’s Josper Charcoal Oven, an imported Spanish grill with the ability to caramelize and imbue smoke on veggies and proteins alike. USDA Prime cuts find their way through the smoke in the flame, as the kitchen turns out Ribe Eye a la Sal and Tomahawk, both crusted in Colima sea salt, and the short rib, slow roasted over a 12-hour period.
By the time the meal ends, you may think you are full. But we implore you to save, or really, make room for the Pastel de Campechanas. One of the more popular desserts, evident by its constant appearance on trays and tables throughout the restaurant, the massive, caramelized puff pastry comes with a complement of vanilla ice cream, candied pecans and a heavy helping of dulce de leche.
With Cuerno joining the ranks of Golden Hof, it begs the question, is Rockefeller Center the best place to get a steak? Go order a cut and find out.