Shio style: The lightest of the traditional broth styles, “salt” ramen, along with its soy-based sibling shoyu, can trace its history back to ramen’s origins: the late 1800s food stalls of Chinese immigrants in Japan (the dish was known as shina soba, or “Chinese soba,” until the ’50s). Now a specialty of the northern port city Hakodate, shio features a stock of chicken and vegetables, plus pork bone for additional depth—think of it as soul-warming Asian chicken noodle soup.
Where to find it: Harlem ramen-ya Jin’s rendition gets an unexpected, brightening boost from yuzu rind and pepper, paired with thin, straight noodles and topped with chashu (braised pork belly), nitamago (soft-boiled egg), nori and scallions. $11.
It's been another tonkotsu-crazed year, with a fresh burst of ramen joint debuts all over town—Hinomaru in Astoria, Ganso in Downtown Brooklyn and Jin in Harlem. But how familiar are you with this Japanese noodle soup? Bone up on the four main styles (tonkotsu, miso, shio, shoyu), plus lesser-known varieties (mazemen, abura soba, tantan-men, tsukemen).
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