Titán

It is fitting that a restaurant powered by two stalwarts of New York's dining scene is named Titán. In the kitchen, chef Alan Delgado continues his exploration of Mexican cuisine—and he's well suited to the task, having honed his craft at Oxomoco and now serving one of the city's best burritos at Los Burritos Juárez. Beverage Director Ivy Mix brings a pedigree all her own. The James Beard Award–nominated bartender behind Whoopsie Daisy previously spent a decade at the helm of the Pan-Latin coctelería Leyenda. Together, the two chart a course through Northern Mexico with cheesy chicharrón-laced tostadas, tacos packed with confit brisket and deep, fragrant stews that beg to be mopped up with a tortilla or two.

The vibe: Beyond the powerful duo behind it, the name Titán actually stems from a street in Ciudad Juárez where Delgado’s family grew up. Underneath the Brooklyn Bridge, Titán is as warm as can be with terracotta walls and a glowing arched bar that's heavy with various spirits from Mexico—mezcal and tequilas to sotols and Mexican rums. The backyard is perhaps one of the better recesses in Dumbo, or at least the greenest, as it's flush with trees and vines that climb brick walls. There's also a projector out back plus a series of outdoor tables to soak it all in.  

The food: First bites found on the botanas/snack menu hint that something special is happening at Titán. Oysters bubble under a rusty red mix of rich bone marrow butter and morita and translucent strips of snapper swim among a trio of chiles—verde, rojo and negro. Delgado's appreciation for the low-and-slow method of guisados comes to light with the chile Colorado, as meaty guajillo-braised pork shoulder comes with a soul-warming ladle of pinto beans. It is great on its own, but it needs a sidekick, and Delgado's pillowy and wonderfully chewy flour tortillas (which are made at Los Burritos Juárez) are the perfect answer.

The drinks: Mix leans into her spirits expertise as micheladas change with the seasons—a current iteration captures the taste of summer with cantaloupe and tomatillo—while cocktails like the Desert Witch remain surprisingly light, softening sotol and gin with pineapple and lime. And those classic Mexican candies coated in tamarind and chili? You can find them in a glass at Titán with the Charmagoy. The frozen cocktail delivers a gentle heat from guajillo and árbol chiles, a tangy kick from tamarind and an overall cooling finish thanks to fresh mango. Plus, it's as photogenic as it is refreshing, served with a Chamoy-rimmed glass.

Time Out tip: Volcán, found in the menu's snack section, packs a punch. The fist-sized riff on the Mexican street food hits every note: rich and toothsome with meaty bits of chicharrón, a swipe of warm pinto beans and a crackly black tortilla, all blanketed beneath a charbroiled layer of melted Chihuahua cheese.