You’ve got to be head over heels for caviar to name a restaurant after it. Located in the basement of Palais Renaissance is a modern European restaurant that focuses on, of course, caviar. As the restaurant sources from the finest producers globally, it's where you can find favourites from France and Italy, as well as rarer seasonal caviar from the Iranian Caspian Sea.
At the helm is Head Chef Denis Jacques Lartigue with Sous Chef Joshua Hariharan. The former stalwart brings with him a wealth of experience in French cooking and most recently, he was the Vice-President of food production at Dnata Flight Catering Singapore where he curated food menus for first-class passengers. The latter found his progressive flair during former stints at Salted and Hung, Level 33 and Cure, where he honed his skills on the grill. Expect no less than inventive and multi-faceted food from the dynamic pair.
Anchoring their menu is fresh produce from Japan and Europe – such as the Obsiblue prawn from France. Prized for its sweet meaty flesh, the chilled crustacean is served minced with banana shallots, and pickled apples, all ensconced within creamy avocado slices. Then come the teardrops of prawn cream and nutty Polanco Siberian Grand Cru caviar. The rich starter is balanced by a piquant house-made chilli and mango kombucha reduction.
From Japan, the plump seduction of the Hyogo oyster is anointed with smoked sturgeon. Cubes of potatoes are braised in an aromatic stock of kombu and chicken, laced with briny French sea asparagus as well as house-cured salted lemon. The finishing touches of Giaveri White Sturgeon caviar bejewel the comfortingly moreish dish.
Also from Japan is the exquisite engawa (flounder). Here, the seared roulade glistens from its own oils and is topped with intensely-flavoured Kaluga Cross Breed caviar. It comes paired with sweet Bafun uni and an unctuous chowder reduction that's made from clam broth and apples. When eaten together, it makes a decadent dish that seafood lovers would all come to appreciate.
While evenings tend to silo on the exclusiveness of the seasonal set menu ($228), there is also an attractively priced three-course lunch ($68) that features Hokkaido scallops with Polanco Siberian Grand Cru caviar, tender Prime Shortribs with smooth cauliflower puree or succulent Turbot with confit leeks for a quality afternoon of fine-dining.
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