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Balestier
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The ultimate guide to Balestier

Balestier is home to famous food joints and cool cafes set amidst a mishmash of old and new buildings which allude to its colourful past

Dewi Nurjuwita
Cheryl Sekkappan
Written by
Dewi Nurjuwita
Contributor
Cheryl Sekkappan
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Balestier is almost synonymous with Bak Kut Teh, delicious chicken rice and home furnishings stores. But did you know that it hides a very significant past? Its main thoroughfare, Balestier Road, runs like a vein through the neighbourhood. In fact, Balestier was first developed as a sugarcane plantation in the mid-19th century by American Joseph Balestier. The area soon became populated and transformed into an entertainment hub in the 1960s to 70s with the Ruby Theatre (Cathay's first cinemas) and Shaw Studios, a driving force in Asian cinema between the 1930s and 1980s. Now, the 'hood boasts iconic food stalls, swanky new hotels, and even hip hidden cafes. 

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Do

  • Shopping
  • Novena

Having its start in the early 80s, Whampoa Colour Centre has become one of the small handful of film processing shops in Singapore. This photofinishing lab has become an essential stop for many first-time film photographers thanks to their affordable prices and quick film processing. The man in charge, Mr. Ong, is also a real pleasure to talk to and he's always ready to share a quick tip. 

  • Things to do
  • Novena

This two-story colonial-style villa in Balestier is a tribute to Dr Sun Yat Sen, a pioneer of China’s revolutionary struggle in the early 20th century. The building was once the Southeast Asian headquarters for Sun Yat Sen’s revolutionary activities that led to the overthrow of the Qing dynasty and the establishment of the Republic of China.

It was here in 1906 that Dr Sun formed the Singapore branch of the Chinese Revolutionary Alliance, and he would return several more times before his success in deposing the emperor in 1911 – whereupon a new battle for the future of China began. 

The memorial hall now fleshes out the political history of the Singapore Chinese and makes a change from the more usual focus on migrant labour and World War II. While there are a few videos, replica objects and waxworks, the spacious halls and galleries are overwhelmingly reliant on captioned black and white archive photos. Next door is the Burmese Buddhist Temple, containing a 3m (11ft) marble Buddha, the largest Burmese Buddha image outside Burma.

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Admire the shophouses
Photograph: Shutterstock

Admire the shophouses

Walk along Balestier Road and you'll see two-storey shophouses of mixed architecture ranging from Early to Art-Deco Style. At the street corners, there are ornate eclectic 'Chinese Baroque' style terraces like those at Kim Keat Road, Martaban Road, Pegu Road and Jalan Kemaman. Probably the most prominent is the Sim Kwong Ho shophouse, built in 1926 and best known for its Chinese Baroque-style motifs. 

The origins of the Chinese Baroque style can be traced back to the rubber boom, where the newly rich ornamented their new buildings with European architectural styles and feature while retaining their distinct Eastern influence and local flavours – all in the name of flexing their wealth. 

Scale some heights
  • Sport and fitness
  • Kallang

Get a full-body workout scaling walls at rock climbing facility, Climb Asia. Climb enthusiasts can sign up for season passes to get unlimited access to the facilities, and newbies can pick up the basics through an hour-long trial class.  Challenge the 15-metre outdoor lead climbing wall, or take on the 9-metre indoor climbing walls before exploring the bouldering cave. Families can join the fun with classes that are tailored for kids between the ages of five and twelve. 

Eat

  • Restaurants
  • Hawker
  • Novena

Feeling moreish? Head down to Loong Fatt Tau Sar Piah, where they churn out some of the best tau sar piah on the island. You just can't deny that buttery, flaky crust, which encases a generous portion of fragrant bean paste. As usual, you can get either the sweet or salty version ($5 for 5) – or combine both in a box. Other than its famed tau sar piah, the Chinese bakery also dishes out delicious cakes and pastries like coffee walnut butter cake and swiss rolls. We suggest you preorder on its website and head down for a pick-up – much better than braving the snaking queue.  

  • Restaurants
  • Hawker
  • Novena

There's a host of solid hawker staples at Whampoa Makan Place, but a lot of people head down for Balestier Road Hoover Rojak. What you get here is not the standard offering that you find at most hawker centres. At Balestier Road Hoover Rojak, ingredients like jellyfish and century egg are incorporated within the dish to bring it to the next level. The only downside is the long queue – but we promise that it's worth it. 

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  • Restaurants
  • Novena

Located in an industrial park off Balestier Road, the warehouse chic decor of this bicycle atelier looks more like an East London warehouse than a family-run bicycle store and canteen. The first thing that sets the cafe apart is perhaps the iconic blue warehouse doors you see all the time on Instagram. 

The popular brunch spot offers a simple canteen menu offering the typical brunch fare of all-day breakfasts, sandwiches, pies and burgers. Popular dishes include the Rise & Shine Brekkie ($16.90) with a choice of egg, white toast, pork bacon, mixed salad with apple dressing and baby potatoes; or the Ultimate Beef Yard Burger ($26.90).

  • Restaurants
  • Chinese
  • Novena
  • price 2 of 4

Home of the famous chicken rice since 1979, Boon Tong Kee is an eatery that needs no introduction. What started as a small stall in Chinatown serving Cantonese chicken rice soon expanded to Balestier Road in 1983, where the restaurant has been operating from since. At Boon Tong Kee, the chicken, rice and dipping sauce are served separately. The chicken is soft and tender, best soaked in the special sesame and soy sauce. Besides chicken rice, you should try some of the best-selling dishes on the menu, such as the Crispy Cereal Prawns and Crispy Deep Fried Chicken.

 

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  • Restaurants
  • Chinese
  • Novena
  • price 1 of 4

You can't visit Balestier without ordering up a warm bowl of Bak Kut Teh, a herbal soup dish made with pork ribs and Chinese herbs. One of the most popular Bak Kut Teh joints, however, can be found in the heart of Balestier and has been frequented by both locals and tourists for generations. The one served at Balestier Bak Kut Teh is known for its peppery broth, perfect for dinner or as comfort food.

Tandoori Corner Balestier
  • Restaurants
  • Vegetarian
  • Novena
  • price 1 of 4

Getting your Indian food craving sorted? Tandoori Corner at Balestier Plaza has some of the best North Indian cuisine in the 'hood. Indulge in the fragrant chicken biryani or go crazy with the huge selection of naans and pratas, best eaten with spicy gravies or butter chicken. Those with dietary restrictions aren't excluded, there's a wide selection from a vegetarian set served with dhal, rice and naan to a vegetable biryani meal best enjoyed with raita. 

Drink

  • Restaurants
  • Fusion
  • Novena
  • price 1 of 4

This contemporary bar-gastro concept at the heart of Balestier is helmed by Chef Ronald Li, who's cut his teeth at Four Seasons Hotel's One-Ninety Restaurant and Restaurant Andre before becoming head chef at Viio Gastropub – so the make sure to come hungry. We heard the chicken yakitori, grilled on the spot just for you, is a must-try. But of course, what's a gastropub without an ice-cold beer? Viio has a whole range of craft beer on tap, from Stone IPA to a Loose Rivet Beer. 

  • Restaurants
  • Haute cuisine
  • Novena
  • price 1 of 4

This spot on the first floor of One Dusun Residences is a butchery, restaurant and bar all wrapped up in one. Start with a cheese platter, parma ham or shoestring fries before heading on to the meat-centric mains. After all, it's called "Cavemen" for a reason. Need cocktail recommendations? Hit up the cheekily named Wild Men Mojito ($20), with passionfruit, honey aloe vera jam, citrus and mint; or the gula Melaka-infused Homo Erectus ($24) for something stronger. 

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  • Restaurants
  • British
  • Novena
  • price 1 of 4

Need a chill night out with the boys, or girls? You can't go wrong with Harry's. The live entertainment and sports bar always makes the perfect evening jaunt for a round of pints and great grub. The Velocity outlet is no different, with fantastic beers and in-house specials such as the signature Fish & Chips and the Harry's Jazz Burger. 

Shop

  • Shopping
  • Novena

Founded in 1959 by Tan Thian Kang and Lim Chok Tee, Lam Yeo Coffee Powder is one of the last remaining family-run coffee businesses which has survived Singapore’s ever-changing landscape. This Singaporean traditional style coffee roaster specialises in both local Singaporean 'kopi' and modern gourmet coffee. 

Choose from a selection of beans and blends to cater to different tastes – from traditionally roasted Singaporean 'kopi' blends to the newer, more exotic ones from Brazil, Ethiopia and Colombia. The roaster also grinds coffee beans from Lam Yeo based on the coffee-making equipment customers use at home. 

  • Shopping
  • Home decor
  • Novena

Balestier Road is known to be a hotspot for lighting shops, but where do you even start looking? For chic Scandinavian, minimalist or industrial-style lamps and lightings to light up your home, Light + Form Concepts has a huge collection that will make your wildest Pinterest interior dreams come through. 

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  • Shopping
  • Novena

From running shoes to camping gears to winter wear, this sports-themed mall is brimming with fitness shops and centres that carry well-known brands like Nike, Light My Fire and The North Face.  Shop through Running Lab's wide selection of shoes and accessories for all your track and field needs. And for outdoor enthusiasts, get your travel equipments in order at stores like The Big Country, Outdoor Life and Marmot.

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