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Love, Tilly Devine

  • Bars
  • Darlinghurst
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
  1. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  2. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  3. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  4. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  5. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  6. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  7. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  8. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  9. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  10. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  11. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  12. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  13. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  14. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  15. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  16. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  17. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
  18. Photograph: Anna Kucera
    Photograph: Anna Kucera
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Time Out Says

4 out of 5 stars

A new chef with a flair for elegant invention steps things up at the laneway favourite

Update: As of May 15, 2020, Love Tilly Devine has reopened and is slinging a $50 set menu. Walk-ins are welcome for a drink and a snack, but they highly recommend you book in advance online

Michael West gives good toast. Briny clams on crisp fingers of garlic bread, say. Or shiny fillets of sardine garnished with curry leaves. Or mussels, plump and slathered with spicy rouille. And then there’s the parmesan toasts with Japanese Vegemite – little rounds of bread freighting a blizzard of Reggiano cheese on top of a dark, umami-rich goo that West concocts from tamari and shio kombu. All this needs, you think to yourself, is a bloody good glass of wine. And this being Love, Tilly Devine, one the country’s original and best purveyors of wines from off the beaten track, that is not a problem.

You might say half the battle is won just having Iggy’s bread on hand. But West treats the Iggy's (the best bread in Australia) as the precious resource that it is. Fresh, the bread is offered simply sliced with good olive oil. Beyond that it becomes one of his magical toast products, each of which pass the can-I-eat-this-with-a-glass-in-my-other-hand? test with flying colours. And if there’s any bread left over after that, he finds more inventive uses for it still. One of the tastiest upcycles is his fiori or fusilli (West loves a corkscrew shape, it seems, or else just likes the aesthetic fit with a room full of bottles and corks), the pasta tossed with buttery leeks, a decent hit of chilli, and the crumbs of bread turned into crunchy pangrattato.

The space that passes for a kitchen at LTD is not what you might call large, but from it West produces wonders. He’s an alumnus of Automata, and it’s tempting to connect his love of Japanese accents with his time spent cooking with Clayton Wells. He throws seaweed in with the burrata, spikes the hollandaise for the asparagus with the seven-spice called shichimi togarashi, and uses yuzu-kosho, the chilli-hot citrus paste, to bring sparks to slow-roasted cabbage bejewelled with beads of salmon roe.

Rare is the bar-snack menu where dessert seems like a better idea than another tilt at the wine list. Not so Love, Tilly Devine today. West takes a mousse of dark chocolate, sets it on toasty pumpkin seeds and then – brace yourself – splashes it with Fernet Branca. The perfect bittersweet finish.

 Time Out Awards

2019Best Bar Food

2012Best New Bar

View this year's Time Out Bar Award winners

Written by
Pat Nourse

Details

Address:
91 Crown Ln
Darlinghurst
Sydney
2010
Price:
$10-$50
Opening hours:
Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight; Sun 4-10pm

What's On

Fried chicken pop-up at Love, Tilly Devine

  • Food and drink

In times of uncertainty, it's good to get back to basics. Especially if those basics are a laneway party of natural wine and fried chicken. One of Sydney’s fave wine bars, Love, Tilly Devine, is teaming up with Hank's Fried Chicken for a Coal Coast Collab on Tuesday, February 1. The inaugural event will see four of the Illawarra region's best producers take over the Darlinghurst laneway for a night of limited-release organic wines, wild ales, fried chicken and good vibes. From 5pm, you’ll be able to dig into tenders slathered in Hank’s hot sauce and blue cheese dressing, corn ribs, biscuits and gravy, mac and cheese and cinnamon doughnuts. Benson Brown and Joel Mucci, from Benson & the Mooch, one of the region’s best no-intervention winemakers, will also be pouring wine all night. Expect to try the likes of Disco Juice (a chardonnay pét-nat that apparently tastes like Fanta), a slightly spritzed organic GSM called Purple Rain, and an Italo-leaning, skin-contact field blend. Brendan Cato will be repping Urban Winery Sydney and showcasing his very limited run wines as well as a sparkling cider made of apples from across NSW and a vermouth that's steeped in over 30 foraged botanicals. Rounding out the drinks lineup will be Georg and Chan Bobbert from just-launched brewery the Barrel Shepherd, who’ll be tapping a keg or two of one of their new barrel-aged brews. Sip on a glass of golden sour aged on French oak and chardonnay skins or, perhaps, a golden ale that’s spent ten month

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