By the look of this dive you’d expect peanut shells crunching under foot. Regulars – like birds on a wire – perch at the bar and a middle-American accent comes from behind it. The worn-in, down-home atmosphere, though, belies expert cocktail, beer and wine chops and sophisticated bar bites.
Beers – Grifter tinnies, Feral smoked porter, Sierra Nevada pale ale – are few and good. The whiskey sour is cherry-topped cocktail perfection, and the Uptown Fat Boy (brisket-infused rye, maple syrup, bitters) is dangerously drinkable. You can also summon your inner rocker with daily half-priced happy-hour whiskey. Eat big with the deconstructed ploughman’s or a hefty croque monsieur or graze on deep-fried mushroom croquettes and briny pickled mussels. When the DJ isn’t spinning a set in the corner, live acts fill the air with rockabilly, blues and indie tunes.