Time Out says
This sacred site for adventurous wine lovers is on a high. It’s so much more than wishful drinking
The name might suggest a preference for quantity over quality, but Wyno is here to help you drink better. Vermouth? They’ve got 20. Fizz? Go classic with Lanson or take the road less travelled with a pet-nat or a proper lambrusco.
It’s not quite fair to say it’s a one-man show, but just as when this narrow sliver of a space was 121BC and worked as a stage, soapbox and pulpit for vinous firebrand and Rootstock co-founder Giorgio De Maria, today it’s Gavin Wright’s passions writ large on the wine list, and the benefit of his experience dispensed on the floor. With one foot in the Adelaide Hills and a background latterly at the likes of Bar Brosé and Acme, Wright strikes the right balance between interpreting what Sydney’s friskier bar-hoppers like to drink, and what’s happening in Australian wine.
The list is rich and full, but as with any great bar, it’s really all about the verbal. Tell the doctor what you need – refreshment, consolation, confrontation, enlightenment – and he’ll prescribe the pours accordingly. That could mean local hits – a thirst-quenching Yetti and the Kokonut white field-blend, perhaps, or a frosty can of Garage Project Tokyo Lager – or adventures from further afield. Garganega, grolleau, grecanico, grillo – Gav and the gang transform the bamboozling abstract to boozling reality in the glass without skipping a beat.
Want a little more thinking with your drinking? Pop in for a session with a visiting winemaker – Jared Dixon from Jilly, Anton van Klopper from Lucy Margaux and Xavier Goodridge have all worked their magic in the room in recent months.
And all this comes backed by the (richly tattooed) muscle of Porteño, which is both the neighbour and owner of these here premises. You can see chefs Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz’s love of big flavours all over the menu, whether it’s in house-made focaccia drenched in oil, Ortiz anchovies and sardines sold by the tin with grilled bread and pickles, or more direct lifts from the Porteño catalog – grilled beef tongue with pickled eggplant, perhaps, or smoky skirt steak with salsa romesco. Wyno? Why not indeed?
4/50 Holt St
|Opening hours:||Wine Shop Tue-Sat 3pm-late; Bar Tue-Sat 5pm-late|