Passeggiata is the neighbourhood Italian trattoria every suburb wants and needs. Sure, Sydney has plenty of places for spaghetti and a spritz, but few also offer fresh focaccia, hand-rolled parpadelle and a 100 percent Italian wine list. Waverley lucked out when Passeggiata opened its bright yellow doors on Bronte Road in late 2022. It’s been the talk of the East since, which is not surprising given the restaurant is spearheaded by Nigel Ward, the accomplished chef from Sean’s, Lucio’s and Uccello, and former owner of Sagra.
This restaurant captures the spirit of la passeggiata – a gentle stroll Italians take after their evening meal – while also capturing the bustling energy of a Roman osteria. The sunniness of the two-storey terrace’s facade permeates inside, with staff quickly greeting customers with smiles and eagerness to please.
Downstairs, the atmosphere is bright and buzzy. If dining in a pair, try for a prized stool at the copper bar. You’ll have front-row access to an entirely Italian wine list championing under-appreciated drops and regions, such as Pigato from Liguria and Sangiovese from Tuscany. True to its Italian roots, Passeggiata also offers a succinct list of aperitivi. Locals lean towards Italian Peronis and the bar churns out classic cocktails including Campari, Bellini and Americano. Fans of the Negroni should try Passeggiata’s Sbagliato – it’s like the Negroni’s lighter and bubblier cousin, subbing gin with Prosecco.
Our entrées land on the table within minutes of ordering. The focaccia appears to be a firm favourite among fellow diners – it has that crisp outer crust and a thick, spongy inner crumb that gets the bounce-back tick of approval. We also started with the kingfish crudo refreshed with charred orange, thinly sliced fennel and a jalapeno kick. It’s an elusive balance of sweet, zesty and spicy, and this theme carries throughout Ward’s hyper-seasonal menu, which he regularly updates to reflect the best produce available.
When it comes to pasta, we ordered a couple, and the standout was the taglioni twirled in lemon and Calabrian chilli oil with succulent, bite-sized prawns. Perhaps it would look more impressive if they presented the dish with whole prawns, but at least you can enjoy the little morsels without mess.
We also tried the mezzaluna (half-moon shaped ravioli) – Passeggiata’s summer edition featured smoked eggplant and housemade ricotta encased in paper-thin pasta envelopes. It’s simply executed with cherry tomatoes, and their sweet juices form a light pasta sauce with a subtle lemon flavour that lingers. A heartier grating of parmesan would score this dish bonus points.
Head chef Ryan Crothers designed the menu to share and Passeggiata's wagyu sirloin fits the brief. The skin is lightly blackened, the meat is blushing pink and the roasted Tropea onions impart sweetness to balance the earthiness of the marsala jus. A green leaf salad sits well beside the steak.
End your feast in true Italian style with Passeggiata’s tiramisu. The family-sized slab is rustic and homely, but it also looks like Nonna snuck a scoop before sending it to the table. Regardless of its appearance, this is textbook tiramisu – a thick layer of cocoa counters the sweet, velvet-like cream and lifts the bitterness of the caffeine. You’ll need at least two people to finish the dessert or perhaps, more time to digest after eating your mains.
Passeggiata embraces the sights, sounds and smells of a true Italian trattoria. The space is bustling but intimate, the food is familiar but progressive, and the wine offerings complete the narrative. Buon appetito!
