Quiet, relaxed, and moderately formal without being too forced, Primošten is one of one of Zagreb's best south-of-the-centre venues for a leisurely taste of Adriatic cuisine. Fresh fish forms the backbone of the menu: it can be grilled, baked, stewed, or served gregada-style in a white wine sauce, depending on your wishes. There are also fillets of fish served in a range of imaginative sauces (such as sea bass with Roquefort cheese, or gilthead with prawns and fennel). Everything that comes out of the kitchen is well presented, portions are on the Croatian side (ie large), and solicitous service is never very far away. The desserts are outstanding, and the Sava river embankment is a short distance to the south – providing you with an excellent opportunity to walk it all off afterwards.
Mulberry and acacia trees shade the terrace of two renovated stone houses facing the Old Town. The pricey menu runs the gamut of seafood. Name your fish – sea bass, grouper, John Dory, bream – and it will come to you, fresh and delicious. Specialities include steak in scampi sauce and anglerfish in lemon. Of the two dining rooms, pick the one in the back with family bric-a-brac: black-and-white snapshots; an old radio; and aerial photos of Primošten from the 1960s.
Pick a table by the beach for great sunsets over the bay or sit in the shady green terrace near the tiny church. All the Dalmatian fish and steak dishes are on offer and there’s also a budget meal of the day. The Konoba Jerko came under new management in 2009 but the style remains the same.