A gastro-style bar and restaurant in King’s Cross.
Situated in a brand-new three-floor building in the redeveloped plaza behind King’s Cross station, The Lighterman has that feeling of being fresh out of the box. It’s doing the gastropub thing to a fault: chips come in tiny metal buckets; plates are never used where a chopping board will do. Everything you see on the menu, you’ve seen before.
Of course, if the food’s good, that needn’t be a problem. Cured trout came with a fiery mayonnaise; mushroom on brioche was silky and topped with a runny-yolked egg. Mains were a bit more shaky: the ribeye steak was generous and tender, but the lamb chop was too charred around the edges. Also, the béarnaise sauce I ordered alongside it was impossible to extricate from its tiny jug. (Still, I imagine the sight of me frantically shaking it over my plate provided entertainment for those sat nearby.) Desserts ended the meal on a high: moist, sumptuous sticky toffee pudding and a hit of sweetness and salt in the form of a peanut butter parfait.
Don’t go to The Lighterman for surprises. Do go for swish surroundings and attentive staff – they were only too happy to re-seat us out in the sunshine on the terrace, overlooking the fountains of Granary Square. In an area that’s seen quite a facelift, this could easily become one of its top spots.
|Venue name:||The Lighterman|
3 Granary Square
|Do you own this business?|
Average User Rating
4 / 5
- 5 star:4
- 4 star:11
- 3 star:5
- 2 star:0
- 1 star:0
As a regular of Percy & Founders, it wasn't long before I found myself in The Lighterman, their new sister restaurant that has recently opened in Granary Square.
The biggest 'draw' of The Lighterman is its stunning location. Set across three floors, it has an impressive glass front that overlooks the river. It also has an outdoor terrace, so it is is the perfect venue for a weekend brunch or spot of lunch in the sunshine.
I went for brunch and booked in advance so I could sit on the first floor as I thought this would have a better view. Note that the first floor doesn't accept reservations until 12pm though.
The food was lovely- basically the same menu as Percy & Founders which I am a big fan of. Good quality ingredients, nicely presented and good service. It was a Sunday when I went, so I couldn't help but eye up delicious looking roasts that were being delivered to others tables. From what I could see, it would definitely be worth returning for those.
If you're looking for a relaxed brunch with a good view, then The Lighterman is...er... your man.