'Honey & Co' by Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich

4 stars
Saltyard Books, £25

It’s not unusual for celebrities or TV chefs to get fat cheques for book deals, but the publishing world was rocked last year by the news that the couple who run a tiny Israeli café in London were being paid a ‘substantial six-figure sum’. 

Yet the lure of this book about an eatery is clear: the owners’ stories that reflect on love, immigration and identity are endearing and universal, and the book is heavily seasoned with them.
 
Honey & Co’s cooking shares some similarities with Yotam Ottolenghi’s (the couple used to work for him), but its Middle Eastern food is more homely and traditional.

I made the labneh (a fresh, strained-yoghurt cheese), which was straightforward enough, but the fast suppers were the most successful. The Israeli couscous with peas, preserved lemon, mint and goat’s cheese was a hit.

This isn’t another speedy cookbook, though: corners are not cut. It’s Middle Eastern cookery sieved through the experience of the Jewish diaspora in London.

If you love Honey & Co, this book is a must-try.

By Guy Dimond