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Step into nearly any burger spot in London these days and, regardless of whether they’re shilling old-school, back-to-basics meat and cheese or something trendier, you know what you’re going to find: brioche buns. Menus everywhere are asking us to eat our juicy patties between slabs of sweet bread.
They’re far too sugary and eggy, and work much better in sweet applications rather than savoury situations. Burgers release a large amount of juice and fat (at least the good ones do anyway) and a brioche bun will completely soak through and disintegrate in your hands before you're even halfway through it. In France, it’s considered something of a stepping stone between pastry and bread, much like croissants. Imagine eating a burger stuffed between a croissant – it feels dirty.
If you want to stand up against this madness, there’s no better time than National Burger Day, which lands this Friday August 27. Celebrate the god-tier fast food by saying no more sweet and savoury with these burgers, which have apt vessels that’ll keep its structural integrity – and no, not a brioche bun in sight.
El Chappo at Lucky Chip
You can't go wrong with any burger from Lucky Chip, to be honest, but the El Chappo is a classic staple of London’s best burger joint. Alongside a deliciously squishy aged beef patty, a toasted sesame bun is packed with smoked bacon and a gooey layer of blue cheese. Roasted jalapeños add a little fire to the mix, offset by a slathering of cool aioli. It’s a beloved favourite of the city for a reason – namely because your mouth will be watering for more as soon as you’ve scoffed it down.
Lucky Chip, 44 Essex Road, N1 8LN / Netil Market, 13-23 Westgate Street, E8 3RL
Double cheeseburger at Bleecker Burger
In the flashy world we live in these days where everything has to come with some kind of novelty factor to keep our attention, you might think Bleecker’s basic burgers are a bit boring. But what is boring about an iconic combination done incredibly well? Absolutely nothing, as you’ll find if you give Bleecker’s minimalist approach a try. Their menu has options from a blue cheeseburger to the veggie-friendly Symplicity, but the double cheeseburger – sandwiched between a sesame bun – is a no thrills fave.
Branches across London
Steak Truffle at Haché
Haché doesn’t quite operate a no-brioche policy, but it does give you the choice of a sugary bun, a much more palatable ciabatta or no bun at all (aka salad). The answer is obvious: plump for the ciabatta. The menu is split between “left bank” (chicken and plant-based) and “right bank” (6oz hachéd steak burgers), with showboating options on each side. Leave the Le Fumés – which are served in a smoke-filled dome – and go for the more luxurious Steak Truffle instead. With caramelised onions, truffle aioli, Gruyère cheese and truffle shavings, it’s a no-brainer.
Branches across London
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