What is it? A hefty and hearty smash burger at a friendly Brixton smokehouse.
Why we love it: This burger has been famous since Whole Beast were in residence at the Montpelier in Peckham, when their impeccable cheeseburger was named winner at the National Burger Awards. It remains a triumph. Aged beef is smashed to within an inch of its life and sprawls out of the softly steamed Martin’s potato bun (no other buns need apply) as if trying to outrun its demons. The square of cheese is luminous orange and does its best to hold the meat in place, while a bracingly sharp dill and mustard-infused mayo brings the whole thing together with the fluency and timing of a great orchestra. Is it a bit sloppy? Yes. Is that an issue? Only if you’re scared of getting a little meat juice on your chin.
Time Out tip: Looking for a worthy side order? Try the hash brown, whichi comes with a sizable dollop of indecently tangy whipped cod’s roe and handful of crushed Scampi Fries crumbled over the top.
Address: 336 Coldharbour Lane, Brixton, SW9 8QH.
Opening hours: Sun-Tue closed, Wed-Thu 5-9pm, Fri 5-10pm, Sat 12-3pm & 5-10pm.
Expect to pay: Cheeseburger, £14.











































