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While the goyim (non-Jews) do Christmas, Jews do Chanukah. While they have mince pies, we have sufganiyot: perfect, pillow-y doughnuts eaten as deep-fried treats during the festival of lights. The deep-fried bit is important: Chanukah is about the Maccabean revolt against the Greeks in the second century BCE, when there was only enough sacred oil in the Second Temple to last for one night, but it miraculously lasted for eight. To celebrate, Jews the world over eat oily food. It’s a very convenient excuse for scoffing a load of latkes and doughnuts.
How are sufganiyot different from doughnuts? Glad you asked. They’re um… a bit lighter, basically. That’s kind of it. You could argue they’re closer to French beignets than English or American doughnuts, but what really matters is stuffing your face with some deep-fried dough and saying ‘up yours’ to the Ancient Greeks. Here are some amazing (mostly) Jewish bakeries in London where you can indulge yourself while sticking two fingers up to Antiochus.
Grodzinksi
London’s oldest kosher bakery was founded in 1888 by Belarussian expats Harris and Judith Grodzinski, and is still going strong across its locations today. It’s a bit complex as the owner retired and then one of the OG shops, in Golders, was sold, then bought back again. But here’s the thing: you just need to eat, in whatever shop it is, owned by whoever (Grodz or Grodzinski). Pop in for some sweet treats and you may well be tempted to dine on the impressive range of salads, sandwiches and deli favourites.
Grodzinkski, 91 Dunsmure Rd, N16 5HT and 168-170 Clapton Common, E5 9AG. Grodz at 223 Golders Green Rd, NW11 9ES and 4-6 The Promenade, Edgwarebury Lane, HA8 7JZ
Rinkoffs
Another institution of Jewish London, this Whitechapel landmark was founded by Hyman Rinkoff in 1911 and is still run by the same family. Doughnuts aren’t the only sugary treat worth sampling here; the bakery is also known for its ‘crodoughs’. Get there early to nab one, though, as they can sell out pretty quickly.
222-226 Jubilee St, E1 3BS and 79 Vallance Rd, E1 5BS.
Carmelli
Going strong since 1987, Carmelli is renowned among the Jewish community of Golders Green for its excellent bagels and pastries, although we’d also recommend the savoury treats, from the lovely cheese borekas to the sizeable quiches.
126-128 Golders Green Rd, NW11 8HB.
Roni
Founded by Roni Avital in 1989 as a single West Hampstead store, this popular mini-chain now has further branches in Muswell Hill, Belsize Park, Hampstead, Highgate and at Brent Cross Shopping Centre. It’s known for its signature rugelach: a croissant-like pastry filled with nutty chocolate spread, vanilla or almond paste.
Check website for branches across north London.
Crosstown Doughnuts
Having made a name for itself flogging vegan sourdough doughnuts at posh food markets across the city, Crosstown now runs ten different stores in the capital. Its Chanukah doughnuts are filled with a rich, homemade raspberry jam, and are available in boxes of six or a dozen.
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