It might be seen as peculiar to open a restaurant review with an in-depth rundown of the loos, but to hell with convention. Hausu lives in the grand, Grade II-listed, one-time ticket office of Peckham Rye train station, meaning its hilariously spacious bathroom dates back all the way to 1865. Bigger than any other room in the restaurant, the lavs are resplendent, covered with intricate Victorian tiling, and bearing wartime-era warnings against venereal disease. Not something you usually want served up alongside dinner, but for these we’ll make an exception. I would, were the correct bleach used in advance, willingly eat off these majestic floors.
Juicy prawn toast resembles a sea anemone on a diet of Huel and 100 pull-ups a day
Alas, Hausu head chef Holly Middleton-Joseph insists that diners have their meals in one of the restaurant’s three rooms instead. There’s the walk-ins-only bar up front; a sit-down dining room in the back; and a strangely bear pit-like middle room, which consists of a shiny counter surrounding a sunken kitchen where you gaze upon chefs at work as if you were a Roman emperor.
Named after a cult 1970s Japanese horror film, Hausu launched in the autumn of 2024, taking over from Peckham institution the Coal Rooms, where Holly Middleton-Joseph (Frank’s, Camberwell Arms, Mountain) had previously staged a pop-up. Her first gig as head chef sees her showcasing a wilfully unique brand of cookery, which draws as much upon high-octane Asian cuisine as it does cheffy, Euro-centric small plates.
Take, for example, Hausu’s rightly notorious prawn toast, a juicy, scallop-injected powerhouse that resembles a sea anemone on a diet of Huel and 100 pull-ups a day. Served with a dollop of gochujang ketchup, this oceanic beefcake is amusingly good. And while ‘Dad’s broth’ won’t exactly fill you up, this cosy cup of elite OXO, hums with fresh coriander, lemongrass and creamy chicken shmaltz. If I could have a small hipflask of this on me at all times, I am convinced I would never get ill again.
A pile of zingy lemon butter noodles are equally health-giving, and nutty roasted ratte potatoes are crunchy and soft in all the right places and come plonked on an oozy miso and confit garlic sauce that wears its delicious dankness like a badge of pride.
Unlike a lot of places right now, pudding is a priority at Hausu. Their toasted rice ice cream is just the right side of sweet, and wears a cloak of sticky caramel infused with five spice. My tongue is righteously slayed by Sichuan peppercorns, then brought back to life by a creamy cheese course consisting of a small hillock of gorgonzola served with flakey semolina crackers.
Hausu; not just a pretty loo.
The vibe Cool, but not too cool, and casual dining in a historic railway building. Like an art-school version of Brief Encounter.
The food Where Asian flavours, grilled chops and European small plates collide.
The drink A great wine list, Hausu is on our list of the best wine bars in London, as well as a decent cocktail selection.
Time Out tip There’s a great early dinner set menu offer, with four courses for £34, including Dad’s broth, lemon butter noodles, and the toasted rice ice cream.