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[title]When Sugen Gopal first opened his unassuming Malaysian restaurant near Euston, it was called ‘Roti Stall’. But as its popularity grew, Gopal developed a reputation for his roti canai. ‘The name “Roti King” was given to me by a customer,’ says Gopal. ‘So I changed the name of my shop.’ These days, customers queue up in droves to get in. ‘People keep coming back, because we cook our food with love,’ says Gopal. ‘Sometimes I see the same faces three times a week.’ He talks us through this cult dish.
The roti
‘We use a secret recipe to make our dough and then cook it on a hot plate with butter and oil, flipping it to make it really thin. It takes a lot of practice to cook it properly.’
The dhal
‘We make a simple dhal, using cinnamon and mustard seeds. When I first moved here, I used to call my mum in Malaysia to talk me through how to make it just right.’
The flavours
‘The roti is both savoury and sweet. The dhal is medium to mild spice, quite creamy and fragrant. It’s difficult to describe, but it’s warming and satisfies your soul.’
The texture
‘The texture of the bread is fluffy, crispy and very soft. We try to make the dhal slightly thick so it can stick to the roti when you dip it in, rather than just soaking the bread.’
The technique
‘Folding the roti while it’s cooking takes skill. When I was 14 in Malaysia, I’d come home from school and practise using leftover dough from my parents’ shop.’
40 Doric Way. £6.50.
Roti King is opening a second branch at Battersea Power Station.
Discover more of London’s Hype Dishes here.