Style over substance is always a possibility when a fashion heavyweight opens a restaurant, but when it comes to Chifa, it couldn’t be further from the truth. That’s not to say Humberto Leon of Opening Ceremony fame didn’t design the space to the nines—custom terrazzo floors, swirled green-and-cream tabletops, a birch-like custom wallpaper and a heart-shaped window beg to differ—but it is to say that its craveable and aesthetics-minded Chinese, Peruvian, and Taiwanese dishes suit the dining room’s panache.
A restaurant decades in the making, Chifa builds upon matriarch “Popo” Wendy Leon’s own Chinese restaurant, also called Chifa, which opened in Lima in the ’70s before the family immigrated to the U.S. She’s cooking her signatures like Chinese brûléed char siu and Peruvian pollo a la brasa at Chifa 2.0 now, alongside her son-in-law, John Liu, who lends his own generational Taiwanese recipes to the menu. Humberto heads up the design and drink programs, while his sister, Ricardina Leon, runs the ship as CEO.
It’s beauty, it’s grace, it’s a family affair with style, love and history on the plate and all around. And that wild and wonderful dining room is one of the first places we want to be when the world returns to normalcy.