Saunter on into the west’s fine diner Navi and straight on into its latest lounge. Yes, you heard us. There’s no need for a coveted booking – disgruntled locals can just walk in and treat themselves to Navi’s wine list along with a curated selection of snacks by owner and chef Julian Hills.
“Since we started booking out, only a month after opening in 2018, I’ve been conscious of constantly disappointing people, particularly locals, who have had trouble getting a table. The lounge space provides a solution, allowing diners to experience a taste of Navi more easily and on a more regular basis,” says Hills.
The dimly lit space is joined at the hip to Navi with an arched tunnel offering guests a glimpse into the action. The interior matches its predecessor too with both spaces designed by Finnis Architects, led by (Julian’s brother) Damon Hills.
A long bar on the side of the room is head bartender Elise West’s (Supernormal Atlas Dining, Bar Liberty) domain. Rows of spirits are lit up by the back bar and to the side sit row upon row of West’s hand-made vermouths, lacto-ferments, infusions, botanicals and bitters. Her arrival allows Hills to extend Navi’s commitment to minimising waste. Because of West, poached fruit discards from the restaurant find a new life as syrups in the bar.
Trays of fresh strawberries that feature unripe, green fruits are sent over to West to make use of in her Subtle Nuance cocktail. They’re juiced before being added to her handmade organic blue lotus flower syrup, her brand of vermouth, Madlore’s Ode to Death vermouth, and sparkling sake. It’s a sweet, jammy, low-alcohol option to allow guests to indulge in multiple cocktails.
The Important to Note cocktail is so important because it’s reminiscent of a Martini and includes two ripe green olives. It starts off with vodka West has infused with saffron and mustard leaves, blended in with olive brine and quince vermouth from Dave Verheul's (Embla) Saison Vermouth brand.
On the bar snack front, unused cuts of duck are braised in a stock of honey, spices and lemon thyme, the meat stripped then rolled into a filo pastry log. The 'duck-lava' is then baked and soaked in a syrup of rosewater, honey and stock, only to be served with a smooth, fruity tamarillo chutney.
Baby octopus is braised in a stock of black Jerusalem artichoke and black garlic, dried then deep-fried and seasoned with mountain pepper and an emulsion of nasturtium leaf, shallots, mustard and toasted almonds. It’s equal parts soft and crisp and overly moreish.
Buttery kangaroo tartare is mixed through with chilli and shallots and placed over a caper emulsion, a slice of focaccia acting as its vessel. Cured egg yolk is grated over the top and the end result is a herby, textural delight.
All-in-all, Navi’s new lounge might just fill up with locals, or those from all pockets of the city looking to get a taste of the action. Regardless of the outcome, the West is all the more lucky to have yet another one of Hills’s creations in its midst.