In a suburb inundated with excellent food options, Austro Bakery in South Melbourne still makes its mark with its offerings of Euro-centric baked goods. The brick shop front leads into an open space made up of polished concrete and cadet blue details. It's sleek but inviting, and at the centre is a large glass cabinet overflowing with the days' baked sweet and savoury items. Pretzels, sandwiches, tarts and doughnuts will be vying for your attention singing their carb-y siren call. From the street, you can view a patissier working hard in the open kitchen, rolling and kneading dough. Behind her are trays of yet-to-be-baked croissants, intricately folded and awaiting the ultimate metamorphosis.
Sally Roxon, head pastry chef and owner, isn't Austrian; but her business partner and husband Christian Gattermy is. They’re no strangers to the Melbourne hospitality scene, and are the brains behind Albert Park coffee shop Hapsburg Empire. Austro Bakery initially offered a full dine-in menu on top of their counter goodies – but during Covid-19 they decided to keep things simple, and focus on the pastries.
With produce almost entirely sourced from neighbouring South Melbourne Markets, you’ll have your work cut out for you when trying to decide what to pick. Savouries come in the shape of ciabatta bread rolls stuffed with sopressa, ricotta and chilli mayo. Palm-sized brioche rolls filled with fluffy scrambled eggs jostle shoulders with twisty rye bread pretzels. Kimchi, cheese and chilli toasties made with buttery milk bread are certainly not of Austrian heritage – however, Roxon is known for being adventurous. It certainly doesn't disappoint. The toastie is sour, rich, and well-balanced, with a baked-cheese-like consistency.
An impossibly crispy pizza topped with potato, taleggio and rosemary is a deceptively simple triumph. The potato has the perfect give and is complimented by the nutty taleggio cheese. Unsurprisingly, it's all about the dough here. Every item is championed by its base, just the way it should be. Criminally beautiful eggplant, ginger and miso danishes are delicate and refined in a way often reserved for sweet pastries. As you eat it you’ll be showered in buttery flakes like some kind of gluttinous confetti.
Your work will not be made easier with the sweets. Scrolls, tarts and cakes are on offer, their flavours changing depending on seasonal produce. Vienna coffee or sugar and cinnamon scrolls along with sourdough chocolate chip cookies will satisfy any sweet tooth. Alternatively, try something from Austria º that’s why you’re here after all. Krapfen is an Austrian doughnut typically eaten during celebration periods. This rendition comes topped with a toffee sugar shell and is stuffed with an elderflower custard. It's gleefully rich and sweet, but balanced well by the flowery notes. A strawberry, white chocolate, and cheesecake tart is an unsurprising hit. The pastry is as short as they come, and even with the quenelle of white chocolate cream, it isn't too sweet.
If you prefer your baked goods hot, Austro has you covered on that front. Pies and sausage rolls sit in the warmer on the countertop – there are the classics, and some not so classic. Bigos or Hunters Polish stew pie has cubed pork belly, with sauerkraut in a rich savoury gravy. A complete meal bundled into a perfect pastry parcel – this is the way to do breakfast on a frosty Melbourne morning.
Coffee is from ubiquitous Melbourne favourite, Allpress espresso. It's served piping hot, in a large mug; the earthy, not-too-bitter profile will compliment any baked item of your choice. Take home an apple strudel or one of their larger cakes on offer, or simply buy your weekly sandwich bread. Dough is the undisputed star here, so make your visit worth it and buy in bulk – and across genres.