Only a fried chicken joint with the aesthetic of Belle’s could comfortably occupy the corner of Napier and Gertrude Street. A stretch traditionally inhabited by niche, locally stocked retail, galleries, boutique furniture stores and the odd café, it seems any run-of-the-mill American style-diner was surely doomed to fail. But Kiwi-born Morgan McGlone managed to nail the intersection between comfort food and Fitzroy spunk just perfectly when he opened the doors to Belle’s Hot Chicken back in 2014. Nearly a decade later, it’s a neighbourhood legend.
After leaving behind Sydney's fine dining scene, McGlone found himself as chef de cuisine at Tennesse's acclaimed Husk restaurant. It was there he fell in love with Nashville hot chicken, the fierier, lighter version of its indulgent Southern counterpart. Hallmarks include a serious amount of smoked paprika, cayenne pepper and chilli powder – yes, it's bright, bright red. Add an acid kick of house-made sour pickles and a spongy piece of white bread and you're in for a great time. Belle's was an instant hit.
By now, Nashville-style chicken isn’t exactly hard to come by – but Belle’s still manages to carve out a particular niche. Accents of the brand's signature red mix with mid-century modern furniture and light fittings; timber panelling curves into a stucco plaster ceiling and a white subway tiled bar adds to a distinctly retro feel. A disco ball hangs earnestly from the ceiling near a vinyl player and huge windows frame leather banquettes perfectly set up for people watching. It’s cosy and decidedly cool.
The menus on the table, designed to be turned over and absolutely covered in grease and sauce, detail a fairly succinct offering: pick a cut; choose a heat; select a side. Tenders, drumsticks and wings are available for carnivores, and portobello mushrooms are available for vego friends. The tenders forgo the succulence of the wings and drummies in favour of a far less messy dining experience – but that’s not really what you came here for, is it?
Belle’s batter is light and packed full of flavour, but don’t expect the crispy, crunchy bite of Southern style or you'll be disappointed. Chicken here is brined, dried and covered in flour before being treated to one of six levels of spice. The first three are for amateurs. ‘Hot’ (made with scotch bonnet chilli) is hot, but it won’t kill you. ‘Really Hot’ (habaneros minus the seeds) will have you slightly dissociating. ‘Really F**kin Hot’ (habaneros with seeds) will genuinely cause you pain. No matter which option you choose, you'll be left with reddened, burning lips – don't worry, it's all part of the initiation. Just make sure you don't touch your eyes.
In terms of sides, the Belle’s ‘Original Seasoning Fries’ are just paprika-covered, crinkle-cut chips – they're chunky, but not thick; crispy, but not crunchy. The basic coleslaw is acidic and light on mayo, a welcome break from the salty, greasy flavours. The potato and gravy is a little grainy and has strong garlic and onion flavours. It is just fine. Sadly, the ‘Mac & Three Cheese’ falls short thanks to a mushy texture and a bland, nondescript cheese flavour that makes it hard to finish.
We also order the ‘Fries and Gravy’ side, expecting to have them served up absolutely swimming. Unfortunately, it’s just the crinkle-cut chips again with a small pot of gravy on the side. It has a deep, beefy flavour, an alluringly dark hue and a mouthwateringly viscous consistency – it's great, we just want much, much more. It's not the southern-style excess we were hoping for, a sentiment that is seconded when we ask for some extra pickles with our chicken – that will be $2. Want some dipping sauce? $2.50, please. It feels a little bit stingy considering four tenders and a side will set you back nearly $30.
But aside from a few shortfalls, the overall dining experience is positive. Attentive, fast and friendly service meets an impressive, exciting wine list – you feel like you’re at a fully-fledged restaurant, not a diner. The Belle’s Original Draught (brewed by Pirate Life) is cheap and delicious, the house-made cardamom lemonade is worth the extra $2 and the boozy slushies are undeniably fun. The consensus? After eight years, slipping into a food coma at Belle’s Hot Chicken is just as appealing as ever.