Vesper. To some it might sound like a scooter, but in the case of this glitzy South Yarra eatery, it’s taken from Vesper Lynd, fictitious Bond Girl from the James Bond franchise, and just like its namesake, the venue maintains a level of allure and charm.
Owners and husband and wife duo Duncan and Marlane Fraser-Smith bring with them 45 years of combined hospitality experience and have redone the old bones of Omnia which now calls itself home in Capitol Grand.
Floor-to-ceiling windows peer out on to the hustle and bustle of Toorak Road and the comfort of plush brown leather banquette seating meets the sophistication of grey marbled tables. It’s upscale yet approachable.
The signature drink in question is the Vesper Martini which famously coined the term “shaken, not stirred”. Here the cocktail has a Mediterranean makeover with an added sprig of fresh rosemary and floating splash of olive oil in a nod to the Islands. The drinks list also boasts an impressive selection of wine both locally sourced and French leaning.
Chef Francesco Castellana (Vue de Monde) helms the kitchen and has experience working behind the scenes at renowned New York restaurant Per Se. His fine dining experience is witnessed in the attention to detail and finesse of his dishes.
Silky ribbons of house-cured trout are dressed with pomegranate seeds and emit a light heat from a padron pepper emulsion. And an open spanakopita is a conch-like shell of crisp, delicate pastry, topped with a dome of sauteed and creamed greens and feta. It’s airy, comforting and inspired by one of Fraser-Smiths' trips to beach club Nammos in Mykonos where they fell in love with the creation.
The menu is no doubt inspired by the Mediterranean, namely Greece and its islands, and with a seafood-leaning menu one might approach meat dishes with caution. However, no caution is needed, instead, the short rib dish proves to be the highlight of the meal. Rich, braised short rib falls apart at the touch while caramelized pearl onions and pickled enoki mushrooms provide a welcomed sweet and sour reprieve.
An intimate, heated outdoor courtyard connects the private event space and bar (otherwise known as the Green Room) in the back with the main restaurant and offers guests a chance to perch on a high table with a drink. But you’ll want to be in the main section to be amongst all the action of servers darting around seamlessly, or to simply slip into a sense of contentment with your significant other. Whatever you choose, you’ll no doubt feel satisfied at Vesper.